Replacement windshields

[Hank Jarrett]

The 4 piece windshield in the 41 is still in great shape but I am fast approaching putting the windshield in the 45 I am restoring. I figured after the 41 the 45 would be a snap. Before I dig myself into a really deep hole (NOTHING on either Taylorcraft has been a "snap") I thought I should ask some advice from those who have done it before.
First thing I did was to literally glue the old windshield back together for a test fit. Looks like C**P but at least I can make sure all the holes are in the right place to match the old windshield. I am getting ready to put the boot cowl back on and fit up the windshield when I found a manufacturer who says there are two different part numbers for one piece windshields. One is for pre war planes in place of the 4 piece originals and the other is for 46 and later planes. Here is the rub. My plane is a 45. Post war but PRE 1946. Anyone know what the difference was? Where do I measure?
The second problem is there are several different tints that they can be ordered with. They offer Clear, Green, Gray, UV Clear, UV Solar Green, or UV Solar Gray. Also have checked from several suppliers, Univair, Wag, Aircraft Spruce, Taylor Made, Aircraft Windshield Store and Cee Bailey's. Anyone want to say how their experience was with any of these? Of course Taylorcraft itself says they have them too, but I have never heard of them even answering a message, much less delivering anything.
Recommendations / experiences?

Hank

[3Dreaming]

LP Aero Plastics is who I have dealt with in the past. They are a manufacture. You could check with them on the differences, but I seem to remember that they were the same shape, but trimmed differently. The pre war with the big tach and open cowl has a higher rounded boot cowl, and they may also hang a little lower in the sides.

[Hank Jarrett]

I will check LP out too! Thanks

[Ragwing nut]

you need the post war windshield. Also same with prewar deluxe, you use the postwar one.

[Hank Jarrett]

Now to the second part. UV or no UV? Clear,Green or Gray? Anyone know WHY anyone would want a Green or Gray tinted windshield? Recommended suppliers? Starting to look like most for sale were actually made by LP Aero Plastics (heard some of theirs may have fit problems) or Cee Baileys. I will be checking to see if the fit problem was a one time thing. Feedback?

[Robert Lees]

We have a November 1945 BC12D in our fleet (I used to own it; picture below). The windscreen APPEARS to be the same as my April 1946 BC12D which I replaced in the early ninetees from Aircraft Spruce, but probably sourced by them from LP Aero.

[3Dreaming]

I would do clear with or without UV protection.

[Scott]

I've replaced maybe a dozen windshields on various types over a long, long period of time. Always used LP Aero.

There are no short cuts really. Yes get a idea from the old windshield but don't copy the errors which are bound to be there. The objective is to get the wing leading edges to line up nicely with the wing profile at the top corners of the windshield. All four edges will need to be trimmed. Just trim a little at a time until the windshield sits in the right place with matching contours. (Initially bend the cross brace supports out of the way, then form them into position when everything else fits).

I find aluminium oxide cutting disc is the safest way to cut as it will generate just enough heat to prevent chipping. Flap discs for trimming followed by assending grades of paper to polish the edge. A good surface finish on the edge will reduce the potential for future cracks.

i have found the odd shape problem can be fixed by careful use of a heat gun but needless to say there's a big consequence if you mess up.

I prefer tint. I think it subtly adds positively to the overall appearance of an aircraft. I like green but it clearly a personal preference. Don't know if any tints were available from Taylorcraft at any time, but green tint has been around the longest.

Oh and it's not nessesary to remove the windshield strip on the boot cowl. Just the top and likely side strips. Trim a little extra to leave room for the felt strips.

The top strip is screwed through the windshield to T nuts in the wood former on the spar carrythrough. You need to sharpen a drill bit with a shallow angle to drill these holes. I find it best not to pre drill. The holes should be oversize such that the windshield can float a little. Test your sharpened bit and technique on some scrap pieces first. To the extent you can polish the hole edges and bores do it, again to prevent future cracks. Screws need to be just snug. Tight and the windshield will crack.

[Mark Bowden]

When Dad put the windshield for the 1999 restoration it was obvioulsy done with green tint. However the tint is nearly gone at 20+ years. Always been hangared and it is physically in great condition.
I wouldn't do green again. I don't like the color distortion.
I would still do a tint to help on cabin over heating in the summer. And to improve the appearance.

Always get UV protection. Why would you want things to fade and rot due to UV damage? Headliners, seats, baggage liners, paint, etc...

Mark

[3Dreaming]

Before you decide on tint, get samples from the windshield manufacture. You don't want to be tied to something that is darker than you really want.

[Hank Jarrett]

Some great advice Scott! A couple of items I hadn't considered too!

Hank

[Robert Lees]

Scott wrote: "To the extent you can polish the hole edges and bores do it, again to prevent future cracks. Screws need to be just snug. Tight and the windshield will crack."

I agree. I polish the holes (and the exterior edges) with a very small itty-bitty-tiny flame from a gas-powered soldering iron with the flame attachment; this very small flame melts & seals any micro-cracks caused by the drilling/filing, and prevents future cracking.

What I also do is to make the holes wide enough to allow the insertion of a section of thin-wall plastic tube (between the OD of the hole in the plastic and the diameter of the screw)..this acts as a buffer, if you like, between the steel screw and the flex of the plastic. This also acts as waterproofing of the holes. I wish I had taken a photo.

Rob

[Hank Jarrett]

When I put the 4 piece flat windshield and windscreens in the 41 I put small pieces of Silicone tube in each screw hole. That was LOT of 1/8" long pieces of tube!!!

[TCUDustoff]

Note: I called and talked to LP Aero -- they swore their windshield would fit a 41 BC-65 open cowl. It did not. It was off by like 8 or 9 INCHES. I battled them for months to return it and got plans from Tom Baker Sr. and made the 4-peice. Not trying to burst your bubble, but be careful with LP Aero. They tried to place the blame on me when I called and talked with them 4 or 5 times to confirm fitment and had to get my Credit Card involved before they refunded me.

[Hank Jarrett]

I am VERY happy with the 4 piece windshield on my 41. It was a lot more work than I expected but in the end well worth it and i would never go back to a "blown" post war type windshield, ON THE 41!

What I am getting ready to do next is the 45 and she had a blown, one piece windshield from the factory. I had read that there were problems with the early post war planes and fitment of the one piece windshields. What I am hearing recently is that the fitment problems are with PRE war planes getting post war windshields. I am hoping that will NOT be my problem. I may have access to the damaged windshield from a post war plane that got a new windshield which should answer the fit up questions.

Hank