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I wonder if one will get a better shine in the cooler weather? After all it gets said many times to put the stuff in the refrigerator the night before shooting it...so it is cool going on I would presume...interesting. Also interesting comment on the possibility of it not drying fast enough could loosen the tapes. Yikes. No one wants that scenario. I have found in South Carolina shooting in the winter to be much preferred...on a bright sunny day with the subject in full sun inspite of cooler ambient temps...found it worked well with Aerothane...but again the sun apparently lends more heat on the surface than the ambient temp indicates..Our big problem here with Polytone is blushing with humidity..winter spraying is much better...again I add the need for a bright sunny day...yes, gasp, I spray outside provided no wind! Mother nature CAN be a great spray booth...or a nightmare in the wrong conditions!
It's a double edge sword however... the longer the topcoat takes to dry, the higher the likelihood of contamination eg dust, bugs, moisture whatever.
s
It's a double edge sword however... the longer the topcoat takes to dry, the higher the likelihood of contamination eg dust, bugs, moisture whatever.
s
Oh and how! I have decided to use Aerothane on the entire plane. I have had pretty good luck with it spraying on the winter months here in SC. Time will tell..Hopefully I can get it done in time!
I sprayed my polytone at 50 degrees, 24 hour dry time per coat, looked as glossy as aerothane.
I thought that would be the case. I also wonder if it (polytone) would hold up better with a natural shine ? (VS a dull polytone average job) Getting a bit concerned over using polytone as it has not had a stellar reputation holding up to spills with chemicals...like fuel stains. Now am reading that the new G100 is causing paint reaction when it sits on the surface (read a leak of any sort..with that crap coming next it causes concern all the more.
I thought that would be the case. I also wonder if it (polytone) would hold up better with a natural shine ? (VS a dull polytone average job) Getting a bit concerned over using polytone as it has not had a stellar reputation holding up to spills with chemicals...like fuel stains. Now am reading that the new G100 is causing paint reaction when it sits on the surface (read a leak of any sort..with that crap coming next it causes concern all the more.
Polytone has never had chemical resistance. It can stain. So can dope if you don't keep it clean. Urethane is about the only exterior finish that has good chemical resistance. However as mentioned, it has shown some staining with the 100UL if left on it. I wouldn't be running avgas in a small continental anyways unless it sits alot.
Polytone has never had chemical resistance. It can stain. So can dope if you don't keep it clean. Urethane is about the only exterior finish that has good chemical resistance. However as mentioned, it has shown some staining with the 100UL if left on it. I wouldn't be running avgas in a small continental anyways unless it sits alot.
Pretty much the same thoughts ...... the new G100 sounds like it could be nightmare with a leak however...particularly with a fabric covered plane. I can just picture a wing tank leaking and have paint from fabric seperation...not to mention the glue, tape etc. This would include Aerothane which is a polyurethane paint...good stuff and tough ...however reading that the G100 is reacting to "paint" on aircraft...as presumably metal birds one wonders what the what. Time will tell....
Aerothane is a pia to repair, polytone, wipe with MEK and fresh coats and done.
True. Also I believe it can be lighter as it covers quicker (as discussed above) Issue is it stains easily and will require more work in future years to keep it nice. Trade-offs at every turn!!
True. Also I believe it can be lighter as it covers quicker (as discussed above) Issue is it stains easily and will require more work in future years to keep it nice. Trade-offs at every turn!!
Aerothane is more prone to cracking along longerons and on the landing gear legs.
Aerothane is more prone to cracking along longerons and on the landing gear legs.
I had a Baby Ace that I had a friend cover and paint with Aerothane for me...(he said never again!) It was Red. Also after about 5 years and 500 hours it developed some cracks in a couple areas low around the outside of the cabin area. (Ring worm) I often thought he may have been a little heavy with the paint however probably not as the tape seams were visible. I am really in a quandary about this. Colors are going to be Sunvalley ivory on the wings and horizontal stab. Fuslage in Insignia Blue. Probably will end up using Aerothane and try to keep the coats reasonably light...coverage dictates.
As Scott said Red (or yellow) is a bear to get coverage.
Appreciate all the feedback all have provided on this topic. Next couple of months will tell the tale!
I had a Baby Ace that I had a friend cover and paint with Aerothane for me...(he said never again!) It was Red. Also after about 5 years and 500 hours it developed some cracks in a couple areas low around the outside of the cabin area. (Ring worm) I often thought he may have been a little heavy with the paint however probably not as the tape seams were visible. I am really in a quandary about this. Colors are going to be Sunvalley ivory on the wings and horizontal stab. Fuslage in Insignia Blue. Probably will end up using Aerothane and try to keep the coats reasonably light...coverage dictates.
As Scott said Red (or yellow) is a bear to get coverage.
Appreciate all the feedback all have provided on this topic. Next couple of months will tell the tale!
They will all crack at some point. No finish is a one and done deal as many would like to think.....
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