OK, so I guess I do not need some kind of 'proper' aircraft gauge. A lot of gauges say non-TSO but the Stewart Warner gauges all appear to be automotive style.
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TSO is required for some specific components when used for some specific purposes. Example primary avionics, instruments used for IFR.
The requirement for parts for certified aircraft is usually proof that it comes from the manufacturer, or
PMA (parts manufacturing authorisation), or STC or
if the manufacturer sourced parts from non-aircraft manufacturer, the same source or equivalent
The last one gives you some wiggle room (depending on local opinions). Transport Canada defines a "commercial part" as follows ( i believe the FAA has a similar thread):- That is not specifically designed or produced for use as an aeronautical product;
- (ii) That is made to a specification or catalogue description and marked under an identification scheme of the maker; and
- (iii) Whose failure does not adversely affect the continued safe flight and take-off and landing of the aircraft
Last edited by Scott; 04-23-2021, 21:48.Scott
CF-CLR Blog: http://c-fclr.blogspot.ca/
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Originally posted by N96337 View PostTry AC23-27. As long as it's just like the original, you can substitute parts for older non supported aircraft.
John
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Going for the "Original" U.S.Gauge instruments is really only a priority for those of us doing restorations where we go totally NUTS to get as much as possible back to factory. There is really NO REASON you have to go back to the original even for an AirVenture award winning restoration. USE WHAT WORKS SAFELY unless you are doing a museum level restoration. Just because those like me go to ridiculous "BAT S**T CRAZY" lengths to find EXACTLY what was used at the factory doesn't mean we ALL need to.
That said, if you DO have an original, even if not working, DON'T TRASH IT!!! There are still those of us out here who will spend down right stupid money to make them work again. For the oil gauges, if you want to "look" close without hunting down a pair of U.S. Gauge parts change BOTH temp and pressure. Almost all new gauges have the needle bearing at the bottom of the face instead of slightly up. Two matching needles don't attract the eye, even when too low. One high and one low sticks out. If you are just semi-crazy you can even have the face re-marked to look original. I have seen a couple of Scott gauges that even fooled me till I saw the displaced needle pivots.
Hank
Decide how crazy you are and ROLL ON!
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