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  • #16
    When I bought my 41 it had several blast tubes (one on each mag and a couple I couldn't figure out what they were supposed to be pointed at). I removed all the "random" ones and got a significant decrease in oil temps. There were also several "loose" areas i closed up when I put the felt in. You don't want ANY of the cooling air to go around the edges of the cowl. I also made new metal pieces for between the cylinders that hugged closer to the case and fins, forcing the air to go THROUGH the fins and not around them. There was a lot of leakage from the chin opening because the duct behind it didn't fit that well. New aluminum there closed up the leaks from that. The pan under the engine was also "snugged up" to seal better. My engine always ran nice and cool until the felt popped back instead of forward and the Silicone baffle seal fixed that. I even went in and put rivets in all the little drill holes in the baffles. They probably added up to an inch hole in total.

    One other thing I did while cleaning up the cowl was to put the oil breather elbow mod on and run the breather line up and over the RH side cylinders, through the back baffle and down to the normal exit point
    on the center of the lower cowl exhaust. GREAT MOD!!! My oil consumption dropped considerably and I now have NO oil on the belly....NONE! It was worth the trouble just to eliminate my having to crawl under the plane to clean the belly!

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    • #17
      Hey Hank, where can I find that breather mod?

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      • #18
        Just Google Continental breather mod.

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        • #19
          Looking for he drawing of the elbow mod now. You also want to run the breather tube OVER the cylinders, not under. It allows the droplets of oil to drain back into the case. Note in the photo there is a piece of high temp hose from teh elbow to the piece of black painted aluminum tube. That tube goes from the elbow to the hose and clamps in front of the aft engine baffle. THE next piece of aluminum tube runs from the bottom of the cowl/firewall up and curving forward and through the aft baffle. Easy to take off and service and angles DOWN to the elbow even in a three point attitude. Nice use for one of those extra holes in the baffle! Click image for larger version

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          • #20
            Found this photo in Harry's book on Continentals. Not the orientation of the end of the tube and the bend in the long edge. This Click image for larger version

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ID:	184824 is important as well as you need to BRAZE the parts, NOT SOLDER!!!! The second photo is of the angle on the case. Again,from Harry Fentons book. If you do this mod you have to be SURE the extension doesn't interfere with Click image for larger version

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            • #21
              Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
              Who wants to buy the machine to install staples? It’s the size of a Volkswagen van! They are still around, I passed in 2 of them just because I don’t have room. They convert a coil of wire to a staple and it punches through the felt and aluminum and folds the staple in about 2 steps of the machine. Fast for production but not an end user way to do things. Tim
              tell me where it is and I will buy one.

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              • #22
                Thank you Hank a photo is worth a thousand words one nice Chinese sayings.

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                • #23
                  And a thousand pictures is, well....a movie! ;-)

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Ragwing nut View Post

                    tell me where it is and I will buy one.
                    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Interlake-N...MAAOSwiHFdfx-o
                    N29787
                    '41 BC12-65

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                    • #25
                      I make these
                      Click image for larger version  Name:	Crankcase breather elbow mod.jpg Views:	9 Size:	32.2 KB ID:	184824
                      N29787
                      '41 BC12-65

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Hank Jarrett View Post
                        Found this photo in Harry's book on Continentals. Not the orientation of the end of the tube and the bend in the long edge. This Click image for larger version

Name:	Crankcase breather elbow mod.jpg
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ID:	184824 is important as well as you need to BRAZE the parts, NOT SOLDER!!!! The second photo is of the angle on the case. Again,from Harry Fentons book. If you do this mod you have to be SURE the extension doesn't interfere with Click image for larger version

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ID:	184825 the engine internals.
                        This is not a good modification for cold weather...it freezes the line
                        Click image for larger version  Name:	c85_breather2.jpg Views:	9 Size:	40.7 KB ID:	184825
                        N29787
                        '41 BC12-65

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Ragwing nut View Post

                          tell me where it is and I will buy one.
                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-stitchi...8AAOSwNphWZRK3
                          N29787
                          '41 BC12-65

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
                            This is not a good modification for cold weather...it freezes the line
                            Yes, but the freezing can be minimized. Cover the exposed elbow and hose (no metal) with common water pipe insulation, or better yet aviation approved insulated firesleeve material (https://ph.parker.com/us/en/high-tem...eve-firesleeve). Keep the hose close to the crankcase for warmth (glue with high temp RTV). The hose can also be run back then down between the front and rear cylinder bases close to the case. I've had both - full run like Hank's with breather mod and between cylinders. The latter was done last on my PA-11 after the full run was tried before overhaul.

                            For sealed baffling light the inside of the cowl at the rear and note leaks by looking in the cowl inlets when dark. Split the baffling as noted to eliminate folds and attach the split ends with a small tie-wrap or rivet and glue the rest with high temp red RTV. Fill holes with the same RTV. If you use lots of solvent to clean it can affect RTV unless solvent-resistant RTV like Permatex Ultra Black is used.

                            Gary
                            N36007 1941 BF12-65 STC'd as BC12D-4-85

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                            • #29
                              I already surf thru those. Alot of them don't have capacity to stitch thru metal. The few I have found have been on the other side of the country.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by PA1195 View Post

                                Yes, but the freezing can be minimized. Cover the exposed elbow and hose (no metal) with common water pipe insulation, or better yet aviation approved insulated firesleeve material (https://ph.parker.com/us/en/high-tem...eve-firesleeve). Keep the hose close to the crankcase for warmth (glue with high temp RTV). The hose can also be run back then down between the front and rear cylinder bases close to the case. I've had both - full run like Hank's with breather mod and between cylinders. The latter was done last on my PA-11 after the full run was tried before overhaul.

                                For sealed baffling light the inside of the cowl at the rear and note leaks by looking in the cowl inlets when dark. Split the baffling as noted to eliminate folds and attach the split ends with a small tie-wrap or rivet and glue the rest with high temp red RTV. Fill holes with the same RTV. If you use lots of solvent to clean it can affect RTV unless solvent-resistant RTV like Permatex Ultra Black is used.

                                Gary
                                Gary, I am not fond of anything that rubs on the cowling, rivets to hold the silicone folts always seems to rub holes from what I have seen . I just cut and let the air pressure hold it.
                                N29787
                                '41 BC12-65

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