Hot C85-12 Baffling Felt Question

[PA1195]

Gary, I am not fond of anything that rubs on the cowling, rivets to hold the silicone folts always seems to rub holes from what I have seen . I just cut and let the air pressure hold it.

On my Taylorcraft I used small nylon ties to hold the RTV-folds until it cured then removed them. On the PA-11 I put a dab of RTV over the sunk-in rivets, but yes nothing that could cause wear is best. One of my mechanics prefers felt and keeps it clean as it will eventually collect abrasive dirt.

Gary

[Ragwing nut]

The book binding ones should, if you use a 30 series or a 60 series that is not too hard, they should work. The ones near me would do 1/8" thick paper which has to be gawd awfully tough to penetrate.

its the head rating for wire size thats the problem. most the book binding ones use thin wire like .020. Need a head that is for doing sign work, those use a much thicker wire.

[astjp2]

I already surf thru those. Alot of them don't have capacity to stitch thru metal. The few I have found have been on the other side of the country.

The book binding ones should, if you use a 30 series or a 60 series that is not too hard, they should work. The ones near me would do 1/8" thick paper which has to be gawd awfully tough to penetrate.

[astjp2]

Yes, but the freezing can be minimized. Cover the exposed elbow and hose (no metal) with common water pipe insulation, or better yet aviation approved insulated firesleeve material (https://ph.parker.com/us/en/high-tem...eve-firesleeve). Keep the hose close to the crankcase for warmth (glue with high temp RTV). The hose can also be run back then down between the front and rear cylinder bases close to the case. I've had both - full run like Hank's with breather mod and between cylinders. The latter was done last on my PA-11 after the full run was tried before overhaul.

For sealed baffling light the inside of the cowl at the rear and note leaks by looking in the cowl inlets when dark. Split the baffling as noted to eliminate folds and attach the split ends with a small tie-wrap or rivet and glue the rest with high temp red RTV. Fill holes with the same RTV. If you use lots of solvent to clean it can affect RTV unless solvent-resistant RTV like Permatex Ultra Black is used.

Gary

Gary, I am not fond of anything that rubs on the cowling, rivets to hold the silicone folts always seems to rub holes from what I have seen . I just cut and let the air pressure hold it.

[Ragwing nut]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-stitchi...8AAOSwNphWZRK3

I already surf thru those. Alot of them don't have capacity to stitch thru metal. The few I have found have been on the other side of the country.

[PA1195]

This is not a good modification for cold weather...it freezes the line

Yes, but the freezing can be minimized. Cover the exposed elbow and hose (no metal) with common water pipe insulation, or better yet aviation approved insulated firesleeve material (https://ph.parker.com/us/en/high-tem...eve-firesleeve). Keep the hose close to the crankcase for warmth (glue with high temp RTV). The hose can also be run back then down between the front and rear cylinder bases close to the case. I've had both - full run like Hank's with breather mod and between cylinders. The latter was done last on my PA-11 after the full run was tried before overhaul.

For sealed baffling light the inside of the cowl at the rear and note leaks by looking in the cowl inlets when dark. Split the baffling as noted to eliminate folds and attach the split ends with a small tie-wrap or rivet and glue the rest with high temp red RTV. Fill holes with the same RTV. If you use lots of solvent to clean it can affect RTV unless solvent-resistant RTV like Permatex Ultra Black is used.

Gary

[astjp2]

tell me where it is and I will buy one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-stitchi...8AAOSwNphWZRK3

[astjp2]

Found this photo in Harry's book on Continentals. Not the orientation of the end of the tube and the bend in the long edge. This is important as well as you need to BRAZE the parts, NOT SOLDER!!!! The second photo is of the angle on the case. Again,from Harry Fentons book. If you do this mod you have to be SURE the extension doesn't interfere with the engine internals.

This is not a good modification for cold weather...it freezes the line

[astjp2]

I make these

[astjp2]

tell me where it is and I will buy one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Interlake-N...MAAOSwiHFdfx-o

[Hank Jarrett]

And a thousand pictures is, well....a movie! ;-)

[waltermrich]

Thank you Hank a photo is worth a thousand words one nice Chinese sayings.

[Ragwing nut]

Who wants to buy the machine to install staples? It’s the size of a Volkswagen van! They are still around, I passed in 2 of them just because I don’t have room. They convert a coil of wire to a staple and it punches through the felt and aluminum and folds the staple in about 2 steps of the machine. Fast for production but not an end user way to do things. Tim

tell me where it is and I will buy one.

[Hank Jarrett]

Found this photo in Harry's book on Continentals. Not the orientation of the end of the tube and the bend in the long edge. This is important as well as you need to BRAZE the parts, NOT SOLDER!!!! The second photo is of the angle on the case. Again,from Harry Fentons book. If you do this mod you have to be SURE the extension doesn't interfere with the engine internals.

[Hank Jarrett]

Looking for he drawing of the elbow mod now. You also want to run the breather tube OVER the cylinders, not under. It allows the droplets of oil to drain back into the case. Note in the photo there is a piece of high temp hose from teh elbow to the piece of black painted aluminum tube. That tube goes from the elbow to the hose and clamps in front of the aft engine baffle. THE next piece of aluminum tube runs from the bottom of the cowl/firewall up and curving forward and through the aft baffle. Easy to take off and service and angles DOWN to the elbow even in a three point attitude. Nice use for one of those extra holes in the baffle!