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The handle came off on my A7 switch a few weeks ago. In the first picture below, you can see wear on the lip that keeps it in place.
A bit of judicious bending made a new lip, and after a lick of paint (and a service of the electrical connections at the back), it's as good as new.
Interestingly, it feels very "positive" now in the detents, so the wear had been creeping up on me unaware.
So something to watch for.
Rob
Im trying to convert my A7 switch. Do you have to drill out the two small rivets on either side of the red lever to get the switch into the pieces that you show in your 4 pics?. Or, will the red lever come off w/o removing the rivets. Also, to convert, do I need to get the switch into the same pieces you show in your pics???
The handle came off on my A7 switch a few weeks ago. In the first picture below, you can see wear on the lip that keeps it in place.
A bit of judicious bending made a new lip, and after a lick of paint (and a service of the electrical connections at the back), it's as good as new.
Interestingly, it feels very "positive" now in the detents, so the wear had been creeping up on me unaware.
So something to watch for.
Rob
I"m trying to convert my A7 switch. It cannot be repaired. Do you have to remove the rivets on either side of the red lever in order to get the switch into the components in your third pic? I don't see how the handle could come off w/o removing rivets. Obviously I'm missing something. (I'm old, don't laugh)
(I think Lee is referring to the photos in my post on page 2 of this thread but I'm not sure.
{Edit: Now I think I understand your question, Lee. Yes you have to remove the two rivets to be able to dismantle the mag switch. They are easily replaced}
There will be a flange on the lever that will need to be removed.
Make a flat plate with a hole for the modern mag switch, that will fit behind the old face plate.
Rivet the plate you just made to the back of the old face plate using the original rivet hole in the face plate. Make sure the hole in your new plate is centered in the opening of the old face plate.
After filing down the knurled nut for the new mag switch so the old lever will fit over the nut, install the new switch into the modified face plate.
Tighten the stamped nut on the back side of the face plate to make sure the switch is secure.
Now whether you are going to epoxy or solder the key in place the key will need to be trimmed so when it is inserted in the switch the handle will fit in position over the key.
Attach the key to the handle using the method of your choice.
I would paint the face plate black before installing the switch, and the handle red after attaching the key.
There will be a flange on the lever that will need to be removed.
Make a flat plate with a hole for the modern mag switch, that will fit behind the old face plate.
Rivet the plate you just made to the back of the old face plate using the original rivet hole in the face plate. Make sure the hole in your new plate is centered in the opening of the old face plate.
After filing down the knurled nut for the new mag switch so the old lever will fit over the nut, install the new switch into the modified face plate.
Tighten the stamped nut on the back side of the face plate to make sure the switch is secure.
Now whether you are going to epoxy or solder the key in place the key will need to be trimmed so when it is inserted in the switch the handle will fit in position over the key.
Attach the key to the handle using the method of your choice.
I would paint the face plate black before installing the switch, and the handle red after attaching the key.
The handle came off on my A7 switch a few weeks ago. In the first picture below, you can see wear on the lip that keeps it in place.
A bit of judicious bending made a new lip, and after a lick of paint (and a service of the electrical connections at the back), it's as good as new.
Interestingly, it feels very "positive" now in the detents, so the wear had been creeping up on me unaware.
So something to watch for.
Rob
Thanks for your answer to one of my question re mag switch. One last stupid question: Is it possible for the red handle to come off w/o removing the rivets? I just don;t understand how it could come off in your hand. Lee...thanks
In the conversion the wear is actually kind of nice. It lets the key and lever come out so you can remove the key and lock up the mag switch. Not that it takes much intelligence to hot wire a mag switch!
In the conversion the wear is actually kind of nice. It lets the key and lever come out so you can remove the key and lock up the mag switch. Not that it takes much intelligence to hot wire a mag switch!
Hank
I have always removed the flange so the key could be removed anyway.
Thanks for your answer to one of my question re mag switch. One last stupid question: Is it possible for the red handle to come off w/o removing the rivets? I just don;t understand how it could come off in your hand. Lee...thanks
There are no stupid questions, Lee; only those to which you don't know the answer!
Yes, my red handle came off inadvertently due to excessive wear, when the rivets were in place. But it looks like for the "key mod" you need it to do so.
There are no stupid questions, Lee; only those to which you don't know the answer!
Yes, my red handle came off inadvertently due to excessive wear, when the rivets were in place. But it looks like for the "key mod" you need it to do so.
If it's one by the original manufacturer you're looking for there is a Briggs & Stratton on eBay asking $250 for it. But it looks like has a replacement handle the stamped not the solid kind.
Also be advised there was an AD on those some decades ago re: grounding of the contacts from excessive wear /use. If you choose it look for an original handle and inspect it every 100 hours or so.
But functionally it's identical to the A7. ...Pays ya money, takes ya choice.
Bill
Bill Fife
BL12-65 '41 Deluxe Under (s-l-o-w) Restoration
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