Wanted Aileron Bellcrank

[Robert Lees]

The off-centre drilling is of no concern (I have a lot of foundry experience!). It's not an accurate part in the rough-cast state. It's the job of the machinist to make a rough casting a precision part.

(I recall during my engineering apprenticeship, a good old gent named Joe, who said to me: "the whole purpose of a casting or a forging is a rough object to keep precise holes in the right place. The material in between doesn't care")

[Woody]

Robert,
I was curious why the stamped X after the part #.

[CaptainJon]

I haven't really looked closely at them, but I bought this bunch of "Taylorcraft Parts" on EBAY a couple of weeks ago. Looks like a couple of those bellcranks are in the lot. I'll look in the morning and check my parts for my two projects and if they are surplus to my needs, then I could part with one of them. How many do you need?

Jon

[Robert Lees]

Robert,
I was curious why the stamped X after the part #.

I have no idea.

[Hank Jarrett]

Jon, The two circled are cast bell cranks. You also have tow bell crank supports (top left) and one cast other hinge (bottom left). Looks like the steel tip is off the cast aileron hinge so it can be checked for corrosion and cracks. Nice little collection of parts. The kind it is fun to see who knows what they are!

Hank

[CaptainJon]

Hank,

In looking at Univair, one cast bracket alone was $560 new! I saw the lot and said to myself, "Now all of that is a bargain, and I may need just a couple of those brackets or bellcranks. Some of the parts are not Taylorcraft (probably Piper). Good stuff to try out the new blasting cabinet on too!

Jon

[CaptainJon]

Woody,

Checked my stuff and yes, you can have one of those 1210 bellcranks. PM me your address. Merry Christmas!

Jon

[3Dreaming]

I have one in a box here in the shop. I suspect I replaced it on someone's airplane because it has had a weld repair.

[CaptainJon]

Speaking of aileron brackets and such....... how much "slop" would be acceptable in the aileron bellcrank bushed/sleeved assembly? Tami T-Craft's left wing has just a bit, a couple of the others have next to none, and Terri T-Craft's right wing seems way too tight (or perhaps it's just been sitting too long.........).

It appears that the hole that takes the bolt from the push tube has a phenolic insert, I assume for wear purposes.......... Are people replacing these when they do a restoration, or can we assume phenolic lasts forever (more than 75 years)?



Jon

[Hank Jarrett]

I can tell you from experience that phenolic DOES NOT last forever! The good thing is it is REALLY easy to shape and machine. Be sure to get teh right kind. It comes in three basic groups, paper based, Cotton based and linen based. You can tell the paper (or wood flower) based because it is very smooth through a cut. The linen and cotton ones have visible fibers in the resin. I am experimenting with making replacement cable guides right now for the guides that are clipped into the fuselage welded control cable guides. I am using the paper based material in a special manufacturing laith set up. The laith is quite a bit older than I (or my planes) are! Spending more time rebuilding the laith than making the parts!

Hank

[CaptainJon]

Hank,

So how do I know if my phenolic is bad, or do I just assume it all is bad and replace anything made of it? How about replacement with "better materials" like HDPE? I suppose that is a "No-no" with the FAA, but what if it gets DER approval?

Jon

[Hank Jarrett]

The Phenolic will last for DECADES under normal use. The nice thing it is shows excess wear visually. The cable guides I am replacing had groves sawed into them from the cables, but they were74 years old! And they were NOT worn to the steel yet! If there is wobble in a fastener bushing or a visible saw cut in it, I would replace it. If not, just consider it's function. If it is to prevent a steel cable from rubbing on a steel tube and the steel parts are touching, change it. If not, a slight groove is part of the protection process. Check it again next year. There are better wear materials out now, but they probably aren't worth the trouble. I looked at several different self lubricating plastics and ended up going back to phenolic. I wouldn't want to get caught using an unapproved material (as if the chances of that are real) but the original materials were first put in before any of us were born and are FINALLY wearing out. I am going back with the same and my grand children (if I had any) could fix it again.

Hank

[waltermrich]

Hank I sent you a PM

[CaptainJon]

Hank,

Thanks. Yes, I am looking at all these things in light of somebody in the future, son or grandsons perhaps, flying these planes well past mid-century. I have little doubt that I could put both plane projects back together just as they are, and have them last me until I can't fly any more. Even the minor spar and rib damage done by the mice since the start of Tami's storage in 1981 probably would not be a problem. But, if we can make them as good, or even better than new, then why not do it, as long as we can get the FAA's blessings along the way, and do it all at a reasonable cost. Taylorcraft certainly changed things, little by little, for the better as it gained production experience.........

Off to daughter's for family Christmas celebrations tomorrow. Have a great Christmas and we'll catch up in the new year.

Cheers,

Jon

[astjp2]

I wouldn't think the offset would be a problem at all. The adjustment for aileron centering would compensate for it. The slop however would need to be taken up (probably just a drill and thin bushing). If it is the offset hole that is loose I would try to open the hole on the thick side to keep as much edge margin as possible.

Hank

Also stole your photos (with attribution) for the photo collection) ;-)

Freeze plug it, that’s what Boeing does.