Where and what rubber seal do I use for the winshield
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Rubber seal for winshield
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Re: Rubber seal for winshield
Makes a big difference what year you are looking for and which windshield is used. The prewar multi-piece ones used a different seal. Let us know what you need and one of us will be able to show you the cross section you need and maybe someone still has some of the right stuff.
Hank
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Re: Rubber seal for winshield
Makes things a lot simpler for you. The pre-war multi-piece rubber is a pain and the post war windshield retrofitted to a pre-war has some problems too. YOURS should be able to use the standard replacement for the 46. Of course I can't help much since I have a 41, but I'm pretty sure someone with a 46 should be able to tell you where the rubber is sold. Biggest problem with a post war seems to be getting a nice windshield to boot cowl metal strip. I have a nice un-flutted one I plan to make a form from to hammer them out, but that will be a while.
Hank
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You really don't need to "seal" the windshield, in fact it will be less prone to cracking if it floats. When you purchase a new windshield from LP Aero it comes with adhesive backed felt (synthetic) tape. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ndinstacc2.php
This tape is wrapped around the edges of the trimmed windshield to prevent it coming in direct contact with structure. On the BC12D the top of the boot cowl is rolled such that the windshield sits in a formed channel that is (or should be) below the top edge of the cowl. I don't have good photos of it but here's what I could find.
Trim the windshield so it sits nicely in the boot cowl channel, with the top of the windshield as flush as possible with the wing leading edge tops. Note; you may need to change the position of the false rib.
Trim the top so it fits under the top cover properly, and trim side edges so they are clear of the door frames. I actually cut the felt in half lengthwise so it's not visible either on the inside or outside when wrapped 50/50 on the windshield edge. I also put felt on the top of the two false ribs.
You can attach the lower channel on top of the boot cowl before installing the windshield which makes life much easier. I used 1/8" AD rivets on the lower channel in place of screws for appearance( and because there's no need to remove it to remove the windshield). Make sure there's a path for water to drain out the sides of the lower channel.
I put a drop of clear RTV on each of the top screws as this is the most likely place for water to get in and not get out, and I used abrasion tape both to seal the top and prevent the top strip rubbing directly on the plexi.
Taking the time to trim and fit the windshield and polish the edges will provide the best assurance against cracks, as will making sure the windshield "floats" so that temperature changes and airframe flexing don't stress the plexiglas.
Drill holes well oversize (drill bit needs to be sharpened with a shallow angle on the flutes).
The stock side channels are soft material, basically a flat strip folded in two to form a channel. It ends up looking sad in many cases. Mine were beat up. I made new ones from 2024T3 by forming two strips and bonding/riveting them together. the Curve is compound however so it ended up being much more difficult than I though it would be!! but they're nice and snug.
Last edited by Scott; 01-05-2019, 10:09.Scott
CF-CLR Blog: http://c-fclr.blogspot.ca/
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