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  • Wooden Doors

    Does anyone have, or can point me to any photos of Taylorcrafts with wooden doors and top hinged windows?

    This photo of G-BPHP before its accident and new paint job shows what they look like but there is little detail: http://www.coptercrazy.scsuk.net/gallery/149.html

    Note that these have fixed perspex panels in the lower half of the door too. It was originally N33948 before moving to the UK

    I have fixed the woodwork and almost covered them. I would like to see a bit more detail of how the perspex fits to the aluminium window frame (is there any outer trim over the pespex or is it just rivetted to the square section aluminium frame? Also, what would the internal trim (if any) loook like?

    regards

    Colin

  • #2
    Re: Wooden Doors

    Colin,
    I can take some detailed pictures of mine and send them to you @ e-mail you any information about them that you need. If you want send me a PM and an address to e-mail the pictures and I will also call you about how I did mine.---Sure is nice looking T/craft.
    Buell
    Buell Powell TF#476
    1941 BC12-65 NC29748
    1946 Fairchild 24 NC81330

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Wooden Doors

      Thanks,

      have emailed you,

      regards

      Colin

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Wooden Doors

        Would the top-hinged window be the same design on a metal door as well as a wooden one?

        If so, I have a Taylorcraft down the road from Colin that he could look at.

        Rob

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Wooden Doors

          One of my wood doors is sitting in my dining room right now. What exactly do you want a picture of and I can take as many as you want. It is freshly restored with the little vent installed and only takes about 2 minutes to pull the window if you need pictures of how it goes in.
          I HAVE made some minor changes by putting in "T" nuts and bolts instead of the wood screws that were original but the wood really doesn't hold that well after 67 years of people forever giving them a turn to tighten them. I also snuck (sneaked?) carbon tow between the plywood and the frame pieces on the area in front and behind the window to resist the bending moment that seems to break the window frames. Added all of about 2 grams of weight and made them infinitely stronger for the nit wits who slam the door several times with a belt in the door.
          Hank

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Wooden Doors

            Boy, Hank is right about the little vista vents. I put some in mine and they are really nice to use instead of opening the window the 6" or so. I have a pair that my Dad bought back when he had his 41 in 1941 or 42 and never used them. They are a little different and I think they originaly installed them in the corners of the windshield but they had the built-up windshields originally and I was not to keen on cutting a hole in my 1 piece. Someday, when I recover mine again I may change it back to built up windshield and copy the ones I have to make it really original. I think the only difference is the plastic lens. IF you want a picture I can send that also--they are in pretty bad shape but good for patterns.
            Buell
            Buell Powell TF#476
            1941 BC12-65 NC29748
            1946 Fairchild 24 NC81330

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Wooden Doors

              Originally posted by Robert Lees View Post

              If so, I have a Taylorcraft down the road from Colin that he could look at.

              Rob
              Rob,

              Stewart mentioned last weekend that it was time we paid you a visit! I hope to be able to do that at some convenient time.

              Colin

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              • #8
                Re: Wooden Doors

                Originally posted by Hank Jarrett View Post

                It is freshly restored with the little vent installed
                .
                I HAVE made some minor changes by putting in "T" nuts and bolts instead of the wood screws

                Hank
                Hank, a couple of points are just making me think at the moment:

                The perspex window looks to have been rivetted to the frame and the whole thing sits in a rebate, hinged at the top. The square alloy frame is not that good a fit in the rebate and it is a bit gappy. Am wondering if there is normally some sort of outer cover or flange around the perimeter - or is it just rivet head onto perspex which will look a bit untidy?

                What sort of seal is used around the window opening and also around the door? When I stripped off the old covering there were just some bits of nasty draught excluder foam and only around the door.

                What does the inside door trim look like? This had some nasty velour covered hardboard panels tacked on which were not very original looking. I was thinking of a vinyl covered panel to match the seats - I need to improve on the hardware store 3/8 square beading that held the lower windows in too.

                I hadn't thought about additional vents - pictures would be good.

                Are the Tee nuts for the hinge bolts? That was the direction I was going in although previously it used round headed bolts with oridinary nuts on the inside which had been pulled into the wood by heavy tightening.

                I seem to have the original handles to work with but need to find some bezels for them.

                As you may gather from my questions what we had to work from had already been made to look scrappy and I would like it to look like a proper job.

                regards

                Colin

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Wooden Doors

                  The square alloy frame hasn’t fit worth a flip on any door I have seen (wood ones). There is a gap on at least two sides and mine had that stick on foam tape to seal it when I bought it (didn’t work). The reason one door is home is I was looking at carving some balsa to fit in the gap as a filler and covering it with some rib tape and dope. A nice snug fit would really cut sown on the wind noise. My door glass is held in with small nuts and bolts, not rivets (no idea what was used originally).
                  The door itself fits the opening like a glove and you can’t pull an inch wide piece of paper through a gap all the way around (that took a LOT of fussing!). I had planned to use rubber “P” seal, but it isn’t needed on my doors (not so the windows).
                  Right now my vents are on the door windows but I have the drawings and will be putting the original 4 piece windshield back in and will be moving my vents back to the windscreens (the standard nomenclature is the windshield is the front piece and the windscreens are the side pieces of what was later a 1 piece “blown” windshield).
                  When I take the vents off I will make some tracings and drawings. They aren’t complicated.
                  I did a LOT of research on the door upholstery and the insides are freshly redone to match the original. The seats should be back within a couple of weeks.
                  I put the “T” nuts on the door hinges (under the upholstery) and in the top of the door for the windows. When the bolts are tightened now the window is solid as a rock and a big part of why I think the door fits so tight. With the hinges tight the door always closes in the same place and seals precisely.
                  Your door bezels are easy too. They are just hardware store faucet plumbing bezels. Mine looked original (screwed into original holes in the wood) and were brass (painted to match the trim color). The door latches are 1930’s screen door latches and rebuild to like new (after which I found the exact same thing at a hardware store, even to the logo stamped into the brass. They still make them!). I had HUGE garage door “T” handles on mine when I bought it that weighed about 2# each. Triumph GT-6+ rear hatch handles fit great and look good but are not original.
                  Done up to original the doors are really impressive. If I can find them I still want to put on original outside door handles and the polished trim strips.
                  Drop me a private message and I’ll send my email. Just understand that I can be REALLY slow getting stuff out. I don’t take offense if you bug the snot out of me to send things like pictures. I get REALLY distracted by my job (in the BEST WAY possible) and sometimes even my Taylorcraft can’t bring me back down to earth.
                  Hank

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Wooden Doors

                    Colin,
                    I just sent you some pictures but am having some problems with sending-I sent from my other e-mail address and I think they did get sent. Please let me know. My plexiglass is screwed rather than riveted also--sure would be easier if you ever need to replace the window. I found the old vents and can send you a picture if you want.-I was wrong about not being used-these dont have a way to close them-just a formed scoop facing forward on the outside and rearward on the inside. I think I know why they were taken out. My parents didn't have a car when my Dad was a Cadet in the Air Core. I bet after trying to stuff old socks or whatever in them in the winter my Mom made him get rid of them. The new ones are much better-you can close them.
                    Last edited by Buell Powell; 04-05-2008, 09:37.
                    Buell Powell TF#476
                    1941 BC12-65 NC29748
                    1946 Fairchild 24 NC81330

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Wooden Doors

                      No outer trim on the door glass. Also it was screwed in. My original frames were shot, so I made a jig to bend new ones. Fit perfectly when I was done with them. Loved flying with the window open. nice arm rest.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Wooden Doors

                        Thanks Buell, but nothing has appeared so far. Today I hung the doors on the airframe and they fit well things are progressing well!

                        Colin

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                        • #13
                          Re: Wooden Doors

                          Colin,
                          Here are some pictures that my wife took for me-Will try to take some more detailed when I go to the hanger next and check why I cant get them to send to you.
                          Buell
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Buell Powell; 04-06-2008, 14:58.
                          Buell Powell TF#476
                          1941 BC12-65 NC29748
                          1946 Fairchild 24 NC81330

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Wooden Doors

                            that airplane must be heavy with all of the interior installed...Tim
                            N29787
                            '41 BC12-65

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                            • #15
                              Re: Wooden Doors

                              Your right-the 41 Deluxes with the deluxe interiors,wood doors, cast grills, stainless mouldings are heavier. But they still seem to preform very well anyway. Even with a 44 pitch prop it climbs and cruises just about right where a little 65 Cont T/craft should. After flying it now 9 years in July. I wouldn't change anything from original--they just did good job of designing these planes---although the bush planes and clipped wings I have seen lately sure look and perform nice.
                              Last edited by Buell Powell; 04-06-2008, 14:39.
                              Buell Powell TF#476
                              1941 BC12-65 NC29748
                              1946 Fairchild 24 NC81330

                              Comment

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