"New" Nose Bowl For Sale

[Peterroy]

I bought a nose cowl from an A&P in North Carolina about 10 years ago. He bought it from Univair but never used it. Likewise, I never used it. I sold my '41 deLuxe last May and now, I'm looking to sell it.

They are available at Aircraft Spruce for $1,500 (yikes!). If someone from the Forum wants it, I'll take $400. If I don't get any bites in the next couple of weeks, I'll put it on eBay for $600.

I would attach a phot but I can't figure out how to do it. If you want to see pictures, send me your phone number and I'll text them to you.

PS: I say "new" because the Univair part number info is prominently placed on the front.

[tagflyer]

I’ll take it for $400. plus cost of shipping if you are willing to ship it. Will PM you with address etc.

Glen Thompson

[Robert Lees]

A good deal, Glen. I can vouch for Peterroy (as can many others, if asked).
Rob

[Hank Jarrett]

If any of the guys have beat up nose bowls DO NOT THRASH THEM. It is amazing how bad they can be and still be tapped out. Lot of work but really rewarding to see something that looked like it was in a demolition derby come back to life. DON'T use Bondo! Just keep on lightly tapping! Same is true for the leading edge at the tips. They are even much less work.

Hank

[tagflyer]

Hank,
Is that with hammer and anvil, or a shot bag or something else? Done some non-aviation steel parts, but was nowhere’s near delicate as something like a nose bowl.

[Peterroy]

Glenn, I sent you a PM.

[Hank Jarrett]

Hank,
Is that with hammer and anvil, or a shot bag or something else? Done some non-aviation steel parts, but was nowhere’s near delicate as something like a nose bowl.

I did a lot of aluminum parts but it is NOT like working steel. I used a set of Nylon hammers with mostly rounded heads of different diameters and tapped the damaged aluminum with different backings depending on the shape.being worked. For things like wheel pants, nose bowls and the curved parts of the wing tip leading edge I had a leather bag with shot or sand in it and sometimes a soft piece of rubber (remember SOFT taps!) It is really easy to stretch the metal. Think of the aluminum as being almost like clay. You are tapping it down and it flows to make itself thicker, not just flatter. You are moving the metal to make the bend or dent level by making the aluminum flow and get thicker. For flat areas I use a much larger diameter curve hammer or slap stick and often a hard metal flat surface but you REALLY need to be careful because the aluminum will want to get THINNER not thicker where you hit it. 1,000 light taps will work wonders while 10 "hits" will just make a mess.

[Ragwing nut]

I'll take it if Glen doesn't

[Peterroy]

Hey Mike.

Sorry,Glenn already laid claim to it.

However, I have an oil (kidney) tank for an A-65 Aeronca if you're interested.

Peter

[Scott]

Note discouraging the purchase of a new nose bowl at all but:

Just a note....

Nose bowls are either:
1. Cracked, or
2 . Soon to be cracked, or
3 .Had a doubler installed to provide some measure of strength to support the lower cowl.

If you have the original configuration i.e. no air filter, the nose bowl will last for a while. But most have been cut to accomodate and air filter. This all but eliminates any structural integrity of the soft aluminium.

If I had purchased a new nose bowl, I would have fabricated the doubler for the intake cutout anyway. One reason I choose not to.

[Ragwing nut]

Hey Mike.

Sorry,Glenn already laid claim to it.

However, I have an oil (kidney) tank for an A-65 Aeronca if you're interested.

Peter

thanks but I think I have plenty pil tanks right now.