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Into the Ailerons...help needed

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  • #16
    In other words the hole in the tube for the ball is just big enough for the ball can come out of it. With the center spacer and cap in there they keep the ball from being able to center in the hole.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by 3Dreaming View Post
      Loosen the plug/screw on both ends so the middle spacer and cups can slide. With the spacer slid away from the ball the ball will come out.
      Ok....crap now that means I have to go through this frozen screw cap all over again ! Hopefully the wing side will not be as bad....

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      • #18
        Well thank heavans . New ball stud came in Friday. Had EAA event yesterday however this afternoon tried loosening the opposite end as Mr Baker suggested an viola it turned immediately (prob all the penetrating oil now all in the tube did not hurt. Anyway old offending ball stud out. New one in and readjusted both . Thank you to all here that helped. Small thing but necessary thing! On to rest of the afternoon with more stripping and rework of all the aileron hardware and sand / re coat aileron spar! Fun learning along the way!

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        • #19
          I recommend opting for new spars. In the end it is not that much more work, but the result will be much better.
          here are some of the factors to consider:

          The inboard and outboard plywood doublers must be removed in order to remove the ribs.

          The original spar may be made up of two or three strips glued together and the glue will be, at best, in its twilight years.

          The ribs will have most likely collapsed such that the webs have cut into the rear face of the spar. There's no practicle way to repair this damage. Adding attach angles to the ribs will prevent this problem in the future.

          Sanding and revarnishing is not a great way to protect the wood. You want the varnish to penetrate the grain, which can only be achieved with uncoated wood.

          Piece of mind and resale value!

          S
          Scott
          CF-CLR Blog: http://c-fclr.blogspot.ca/

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          • #20
            Good thoughts...

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            • #21
              Scott is correct, sometime its easier to build new than remodel.

              Glad you are making progress. Post some pics when you get a chance please.
              Mark
              1945 BC12-D
              N39911, #6564

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Mark Bowden View Post
                Scott is correct, sometime its easier to build new than remodel.

                Glad you are making progress. Post some pics when you get a chance please.
                Will be awhile on pictures. Empenage parts are all cleaned up and set aside. Working on cleaning up the ailerons now. Once done will be setting aside for cover...then on to the wings.

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                • #23
                  I have some play in the ball-stud/tube on my airplane. Is this usually due to wear of the hole in the tube, wear of the cup, or of the ball itself? Or is the slop adjustable by tightening the tube cap?
                  Last edited by braol; 02-04-2024, 08:40.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by braol View Post
                    I have some play in the ball-stud/tube on my airplane. Is this usually due to wear of the hole in the tube, wear of the cup, or of the ball itself? Or is the slop adjustable by tightening the tube cap?
                    I had mine out to replace the ball stud as it had a broken cotter pin flush in side the threads. It probably only needs tightened. Try tightening the end cap closest to it.

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                    • #25
                      The ball end will wear unevenly, meaning that when you tighten out the play, it may bind in certain positions.

                      So, once you've made an adjustment, make sure the rod functions at all possible angles without binding.
                      S
                      Scott
                      CF-CLR Blog: http://c-fclr.blogspot.ca/

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