Under "clam shell" H bar hold downs

[Jim Herpst]

Thank you all. Now to source or make the bushings. The outside was definitely metal to metal. Not good. Tge inside two(The double hold downs for both tubes definitely take a larger thickness shim or two ganged.

Sure am glad I took this apart for painting. So sending off all the cables to McFarlane (sp).

New pulkys going back on (needle bearing type) by the way all the pulls and hold downs of the rudder bars and H bar were put on with bolts using aircraft grade stop nuts...no drilled bolts . Is that acceptable?

[3Dreaming]

Drilled bolts are for where there is rotation. No rotation on the clamp hold downs, so lock nuts are acceptable.

[3Dreaming]

You will have to make the shims. Just get some .010" shim stock. You can cut it with scissors, and use a paper hole punch for the holes. Remember to punch holes for the oil.

Also since it is along the same lines as the shims, make sure that you use the correct knurled hinge pins, and the the lugs or aileron brackets are not worn so much that they turn in the bracket. The hinge pins should only rotate in the bronze bushing. If they rotate in the lugs or bracket it is bad.

[Jim Herpst]

Drilled bolts are for where there is rotation. No rotation on the clamp hold downs, so lock nuts are acceptable.

So all the pulley bolts should be drilled with cotterpins? Or not because one is snugging the nut against a bracket not the pulley (well one end of the bolt IS against the pulley

[waltermrich]

I just relaced all of my aileron pulleys with new Ralmark ball bearing pulleys (quite pricy) so I just relaced the cotter pins that were in the original drilled bolts being care full to get the tension in the cables right, you have to loosen the cables to get the pulleys in place and rebolt them. You may not be doing that if you are rebuilding. It can be a pain to get at all the cotter pin holes but it is doable.

[Jim Herpst]

Thanks. Yes, all my cables are being replaced with new ones and am using the Ralmark ball bearing pulleys. Will re tension all cables is an obvious deal given the replacement...

As far as the locknut vs drilled bolt question question I had I am answering it my self. Lock nuts will work on those as well as both sides of the bolt are in place and not turning.


Jim

[3Dreaming]

As you said the bolt is not turning. The bolt is tight against the pulley bracket, and clamps the inner race on the bearing. It will not try to turn the bolt, unless the bearing seizes.

[Hank Jarrett]

Went out and checked my planes today. Good thing since the bushings are missing from the rudder pedals on the 45! Also good luck that I have the boot cowl off now. Would have been really aggravating to find out after the engine and boot were back on!

Hank

[Jim Herpst]

Brass insert updates: Today I went to the last old time hobby store in Columbia SC. They had one stick of brass left for 1.26. Came home and ordered the rest from Amazon for 5.35 each!!

[waltermrich]

Thanks for your reply, my opinion on the use of cotter pins in the aircraft pulleys is that The original manufacture used them so I choose to as well, I did think about using plastic lock nuts but decided to stay with the original I looked up the installation in AC 43.13-1B the FAA Bible and it just says Cotter pins are to be used on aircraft, (underlined ) and engine controls , landing gear and tailwheel assemblies , or any other point where a turning or actuating movement takes place. So it goes. Anyway I like it original.

[Woody]

Jim,
If you havent already made the shims, here is what I did. Take a piece of 1x2 oak about 4"long and drill two holes at the correct distance with a forstner bit of the same size as the tube. saw it through the holes and you have a female die. place two pieces of tubing in die and press in a vice. it will press down in the middle and draw the ends in. Trim to length and make holes for mounting and oil.

[Jim Herpst]

Thank you for the advice

[astjp2]

I understand what I have as the bushings . I just had the steel half ..s for referance. My question is if there are any for the rudder pedal bars.

I bought an entire roll of brass shim stock to make these, just never did.