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Hello, finally rigging the wings on 44057 after new struts and much other work. I understand the rigging as explained in the old manual. Seems easy enough. Here are my questions. Using 1/8" diamond rope (essentially very heavy polyester string) which seems to be able to be stretched taught nicely; is that what you used? But how did you attach it at the front spar and also at the rear spar ENDS of the wing? Tape doesn't seem to hold. Should I use a screw down into the very tip of the spar? That doesn't seem like it would damage anything way out there. Thank you
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Which "old manual" do you mean? And what purpose is the rope to which you refer?
The only wing rigging required is setting the wash-out on the rear struts of each wing. No strings attached, so to speak!
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If you are refering to some of the new sealed strut instructions, not much you can do with a fixed front strut, set your washout and fly, adjust as necessary and write down what you do, so if you turn 1/2 turn out on the left, and its not enough, do a half turn in on the right...until it flies hands off and wings level. TImN29787
'41 BC12-65Comment
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OK..... fascinating responses. The Taylorcraft Owner's manual is the original one from the factory. It explains how to do adjust the rear struts effectively and my real question was just how to hold the string they reference. Not sure how you would check the washout of the wings otherwise. I just guessed incorrectly that everyone would reference the factory manual. Uh, sending this along for your reference.... https://www.taylorcraft.org/docs/tay...ual%20BB12.pdfComment
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Hangarb7:
I have rigged a few Taylorcraft over the years, and using a string between the wingtips to set the lateral reference is not really necessary. In fact the very act of "place a line level on the center of the string" is practically impossible to achieve.
It's the longitudinal pitch axis that is important in achieving the correct washout, at least for first flight. Use a 30" level to check the washout at the first full rib inboard from the wingtip, as the manual says. This will put the aircraft in the correct ball-park. Then fly, and tweak the rear struts slightly, if needed, for hands-off flying. Page 20 of the manual that you posted has the details.
The last time I did this was with Mike Jones' Taylorcraft last September...remember that Mike?Comment
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I made a jig to rig the wings for a digital level, put the level on the stab to "zero" the level, then use the tool and set the wing to Zero, adjust for flight. TimN29787
'41 BC12-65Comment
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I should make one. Maybe get a rib plus plywood and trace then cut out the leading edge and bottom shape. Lay the digital level on the straight plywood's edge hanging down below root and tip and subtract the difference.
GaryN36007 1941 BF12-65 STC'd as BC12D-4-85Comment
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Why wouldn't you just drill a small hole in the wing tip (which is a piece of steel tubing) right at the end of the spar then put a #4 PK screw in it to achieve your stated goal?Originally posted by hangarb7 View Post
If you did that then be sure to seal up the hole and make sure that the wing tip tube is free to drain at the trailing edge.
Also did you notice that the instructions on page 9 contradict those on page 20?
I would ignore page 9 and just do page 20.
Dave R
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Just make a jig to check washout and forget the rest, I used4’ of aluminum 3/4” angle to make an improvised square then put a bolt at the front spar location Set to 1-5/16” high, the straight long part of your square stops at the rear spar. Done, takes 30 minutes and you have a tool that will last a generation or 5 for the amount of wings the average person will rig. TimN29787
'41 BC12-65Comment
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I recall just using a level that had ruler markings and and block of wood and tape.Comment
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All you need to check equal dihedral on both wings is a string TAPED TO EACH WING TIP or tied to the light if you have them. Lift the low tire side till a level across the tube behind thr seat has the bubble level then hold a bubble level up to the string anywhere along its length to see how far out of level your wings are. Now the fun part. The information is totally useless since you can't change it anyway and it doesn't change how the plane will fly. If you fly one wing down a couple of degrees you will never be able to tell anyway.
Now having the wing angle of attack on either side wrong can have a LARGE impact! You want to get both sides the same to start and then add wash want to make the plane fly level at cruise hands off. Perfect is nice but Taylor didn't know the definition of perfect. The angle of incidence of REAL wings changes along the span. you START with it the same angle at the strut attaches and then trim the wings for level in roll hands off. It probably WON'T stay the same angle on both sides at any point. Don't worry about it.
HankComment
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I remember it like it was just last September Rob. It does feel longer than that with everything else going on though doesn't it? I'm happy we got it dialed in a bit more than it had been before continuing on with our trip west!Originally posted by Robert Lees View Post
Mike
NC29624
1940 BC65Comment
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Just put it at the front spar. Use some heavy tape and a small weight over the wing tip. The cord you're using might be too large, try rib stitch cord. You just want to make sure the longitude is level. Adjusting the dihedral of the Cub is a similar operation.
EOComment
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Why are you checking the dihedral of a wing that cannot be changed? I am still back to washout and fly it till it flies straight and level... That is like checking your motor mount for thrust angle, its not something you just change. TimN29787
'41 BC12-65Comment
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He appears to be making sure the lateral axis is level. Many ways to achieve this, he is following the manual instructions. He's not adjusting the dihedral, just asking how to hold the string in place.
EOComment
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