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Not tight at all like a Cessna. My preference is to set them with about 1/4" droop for both, but so if both are lifted simultaneously They are streamlined with the trailing edge of the wing. The cable through the cabin shouldn't have any slack, but not overly tight either. If any are over tightened the aileron control system will bind. Also if you have ball bearing pulleys you can tighten the cable a little tighter and still be OK, but I still wouldn't tighten to Cessna/Piper type specifications.
You can have too much or too little tension on the aileron cable circuit, but still have the same (correct) aileron droop to which 3Dreaming and Ragwingnut refer. It's a closed circuit...the cable tension does nothing to affect the aileron droop.
The aileron cable tension needs to be set just so, and it is much slacker than you would think. Experience (and the knowledge of an experienced Taylorcraft owner) will tell you.
In response to post #4, yes, it will change tension just slightly. Big thing is like spoken earlier, do not get them over tight. Same applies to the closed loop system in the cockpit area.
You can have too much or too little tension on the aileron cable circuit, but still have the same (correct) aileron droop to which 3Dreaming and Ragwingnut refer. It's a closed circuit...the cable tension does nothing to affect the aileron droop.
The aileron cable tension needs to be set just so, and it is much slacker than you would think. Experience (and the knowledge of an experienced Taylorcraft owner) will tell you.
Rob
Rob, I agree that you can have the cables to tight with the correct droop. That is why I said you should be able to raise both ailerons at the same time so they are even with the trailing edge. Just enought tension in the cable to hold them up, and just enough slack to allow them to be raised.
That is why I rig them with the elevators neutral to minimize any extra tension. Usually the way I do it is to tighten the buckle to neutral with the other buckle loose, then tighten the other buckle to give the droop. Usually gives a proper or slightly taught tension. If new cables, they will stretch and have to be readjusted anyways.
It is a dumb way to rig cables but it is the way Taylorcraft did it. Loose enough to not bind, but tight enough to not rattle (at any deflection), and yes, the tension changes with wheel deflection. It makes a control systems engineer shudder, but has worked for decades. Mine get just a tad tight in certain wheel positions and just a tad loose in others.
I like to look out the side window in flight and see them even with the trailing edge of the wing. With a potential 120* temp seasonal spread that makes for a compromise setting right around freezing. That's when I want them in trail after a slight droop when parked.
Cubs are always too tight but if too loose in winter can wrap around the trailing edge of the front strut.
It is a dumb way to rig cables but it is the way Taylorcraft did it. Loose enough to not bind, but tight enough to not rattle (at any deflection), and yes, the tension changes with wheel deflection. It makes a control systems engineer shudder, but has worked for decades. Mine get just a tad tight in certain wheel positions and just a tad loose in others.
Hank
thats because there is to many 90* turns and a couple 180* in the control system. I agree, its stupid. My clipwing will have push/pull rods and bell cranks with bearings and none of that control column nonsense
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