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Wing root fairing cinch bolt

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  • Scott
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Supposed to be horizontal.
    Shouldn't need any nails

    There will likely be a couple of Pk screws through the wing root strips into the filler pieces
    Last edited by Scott; 05-22-2018, 21:11.

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  • Leenicklas
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Great photo of the filler pieces. Mine look almost identical and I think they are the original ones from my BC12-d '46 model. Both of mine have a small tab at the wide end with a few nail holes. Are these the tabs that get one nail into the wooden longeron on the fuselage that Hank mentioned. The tabs on mine have been bent some. Are they supposed to be in the horizontal plane or vertical. Thkanks, Lee

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  • 8708
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Thanks for another great photo. These will really help me make the new ones.
    Jay

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  • 8708
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Thanks for another great photo. These will really help me make the new ones.
    Jay

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  • Dick Smith
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Just a another look at how it can be done.
    Attached Files

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  • 8708
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Originally posted by Scott View Post
    Here's a couple of photos of the gap fillers. The bands on my 46 BC12D were 025" and made in two pieces spot welded together on the lower surface about a foot aft of the leading edge. I have reason to believe these are original given the spot welds, and steel rivets attaching the aft fitting. This is not to say that's how the factory did all of them, but at least one.
    Those are great photos!! That is just what I needed!
    Many thanks to everyone for replying!
    Jay

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  • Scott
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Originally posted by 8708 View Post
    Hi Folks,
    Does anyone have photos of the wing root covers and the wedge-shaped gap filler that are off the airplane?
    There are several photos of them installed and get me tantalizingly close!
    I am having to make them and need some kind of go by.
    Are the root covers one piece and just curve around the leading edge then straight back and holding the gap filler in place?
    Is the gap filler just aluminum or fabric covered wood or something similar.
    Thanks!Jay
    Here's a couple of photos of the gap fillers. The bands on my 46 BC12D were 025" and made in two pieces spot welded together on the lower surface about a foot aft of the leading edge. I have reason to believe these are original given the spot welds, and steel rivets attaching the aft fitting. This is not to say that's how the factory did all of them, but at least one.
    Attached Files

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  • M Towsley
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Originally posted by Robert Lees View Post
    That's how Austers are done.
    And it still doesn't improve the look.

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  • Robert Lees
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Originally posted by Hank Jarrett View Post
    I saw one that the bands were gone completely and someone had doped fabric across the gap between the fuselage and wing.

    Hank
    That's how Austers are done.

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  • Hank Jarrett
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    I saw one that the bands were gone completely and someone had doped fabric across the gap between the fuselage and wing. As was said before, I am pretty sure there are no two Taylorcrafts that are exactly the same. They may have had some come from the factory alike, but mechanics and restorers over the years have made them all individuals.
    What cracks me up is when a "government official" says to me mine is "wrong". Had one guy tell me I couldn't use a "home made" exhaust and had to get a factory one. He thought all A-65-8s had to have Cub exhausts. Lucky for me I happened to have a 41 parts catalogue with a picture of the exhaust. He needed to go look at some business jets where he wouldn't look like an idiot. Lots of good IAs out there, but some are a real problem. That one has been told he isn't allowed in my hangar and CERTAINLY is not allowed to touch my plane. He has pushed it a couple of times, but I just tell him to go get the cops or I will. He has a reputation at the airport for being flat out dangerous.

    Hank

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  • Robert Lees
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
    my airplane has been without farings since 2007 and still flies like normal, but drafty!
    ...and it doesn't look right either! (not that you care!)

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  • astjp2
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    my airplane has been without farings since 2007 and still flies like normal, but drafty!

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  • 3Dreaming
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
    Its aluminum, I am going to make mine like a cub and just make a complete 1 piece faring...
    That works nice with the early airplanes where the trailing edge is lined up with the fuselage longeron. On some of the later airplanes the wing trailing edge sits well below the fuselage longeron. For these the filler block works better in my opinion.

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  • Mark Julicher
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Jay,
    The wing bands are one piece on my BC-12D and F-19, but every time I make a definitive statement about a Taylorcraft part I discover that I am either wrong or that another model T-craft did it differently... it is still a rumor that two Taylorcraft were ever built the same way...

    Several people have posted good photos, and I'm sure someone will point you at those. Fabricate the bands from .016 aluminum or you might possibly use .020; quarter hard or half hard will be fine. There are a couple styles out there. The band is not just a straight edge piece of metal, but rather gets wider at the leading edge next to the windscreen. I found that my original bands were narrower there than I liked so I added a little width to get a better fit. A LOT depends on whether your windscreen lays flat/even with the wing root or if you have a bit of a bulge to cover.

    The edges of the band should have a plastic or rubber channel edging, at least at the plexiglass windscreen. I find it is tough to get edging that will stand up to years outdoors, so perhaps another tribesman has a good solution here.

    On my '46 wing bands, about the last four feet (aft end) are riveted to the front part with a single rivet such that the last few feet of band are articulated and the angle can be adjusted just a bit. Not all wing bands are built that way. This riveted bit may be original, but it might have been an expedient solution when someone could not find really long aluminum stock. BTW, a long roll of aluminum guttering/flashing material in 6 inch or 30 inch with is available at various box stores.

    The fastener is difficult to describe and I don't have a photo handy just now, but again, I know someone will step up and help. The fastening screws are about six inches long. I did not like the originals so I fabricated new ones using all thread rod and brazed a plain nut onto the end. That way I can use a socket to put them on and off and not be frustrated by my original slotted screw head. Downside is that all thread rusts after a while.

    My wedge pieces are all aluminum but I have seen really nice ones out of plywood and spar varnished. My aluminum wedges are .016 but if I were ever to fabricate new I might consider .020. Again, I lack a photo at the moment, but others here will fill that in.

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  • Hank Jarrett
    replied
    Re: Wing root fairing cinch bolt

    Every really old plane I have seen (read that "looks like it is still original) had the slot head screw. As was said before, the slot heads are a royal PITA. I put a piece of brass tube under the screw head and a washer to move the screw head out to the hole (it is set WAY DOWN in the TE hole) which makes it much easier to keep the driver in the slot, but if I can find some long (longer the better) allen head screws i will switch to that.

    One hint is to take the screws (whatever kind you have) and grind off the threads on the end for about 1/2". That gives you a pilot to go into the threaded fitting down in the hole. Be sure to clean up the first thread so it doesn't cross thread.

    As for the filler I have drawings to make new ones (both the pre and post war versions.....they are different). You are NOT supposed to drive screws through the bands into the filler wedge!!! It is supposed to float between the wing and fuselage and top and bottom of the band. It is only secured by one small nail into the fuselage wood longeron wedge at the small tab on top.

    Hank

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