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Below is a picture of the new main fuel valve (along with my old one) that I got thanks to the efforts of Tim (astjp2) and Terry Bowden (barnstmr). I needed this as part of the upgrade to the C85.
It fits perfectly.
Has any of the members had any header fuel valves that were so tight they would not operate?? without major amounts of force?? brass to brass old and very sticky
Yes, and also leaked. It will tear out the bottom of the take if you keep forcing it. Then you will need to get the tank fixed also at a good radiator shop, they have the tools and solder to repair tern plate or the welders to do thin aluminum, depending on what tank you have. My tank now has a build up of solder over 1/4" thick where the valve screws in. If you are removing the elbow and it wont come out, also take it to the radiator shop and get them to remove it, they can remove the gas vapors and gently heat it so it will come out. You need an old school radiator repair shop to do this and tell them its a tractor tank from the 40's or something or they may not want to work on it. Tim
Very typical, some folks will disassemble, clean, lap and lightly lube with Fuel Lube. However, be extremely careful about the lube part. I believe a small piece of Fuel Lube, which does not dissolve in fuel, broke away and got into my carb. It blocked the smaller orifice and caused the engine to die on final. My valve moves but with difficulty. It has been suggested to reach down and assist the handle open or closed by hand while using the knob or rod. As Tim pointed out, you can damage the tank if forced. This is the reason I am going with the new fuel valve Tim just made and be done with this difficult to operate and leaky 67 year old valve. My opinion is there are 12 gallons of fuel sitting in your lap and I want a good, safe, easy to operate fuel valve.
Thanks guys for the quick reply on this, it would make sense to me if that actuation could potentially break off the fuel neck and pour gasoline out of tank into cabin in flight, ?? gezzzz maybe better to be disconnected till problem is fixed, however, no certified parts appear to be available, so fix the old one or ?? hummm use the imagination I guess. Probably would not need to actuate in flight anyway unless one had a fire, then if the neck broke off we could just accelerate the grim situation, gezzzzz grim grim
You know what really torks my jaw is that there are many very good solutions to this, valves that are used daily from AC Spruce, Univair and others that work perfect and are safe and used daily on experimentals etc, but not original, to our application so think the FAA will approve "HELL NO" they would rather you take the chances with the old valve
A local hardware store had valves that looked EXACTLY like the ones in the above photos. Brass with a SS ball and square output shaft. It would take about 5 minutes to file a lever from a piece of brass. Of course the whole assembly would be totally illegal.
Hank
There is a forum member who has taken a bunch of time and money to do exactly as you are attempting to do. Please read this whole thread. Why re-invent the wheel? Let's support Tim, (astjp2), who is fabricating handles for new fuel valves or no one else will be willing to do things such as this.
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