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Magneto switch and bungee cords

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  • #16
    Seems like I checked that AD when I made my first panel fake A-7. The switch I put behind the face plate and lever was one the AD applied to. The problem the AD addresses is failure of the switch to ground out one or both mags making it impossible to shut down the engine. If you are running a Stromberg Carb you check that on every shut down. If the engine keeps running with the mag off you shut off the fuel and wait for the engine to stop. It WON'T stop with the mixture, so the AD really isn't a safety problem for us.
    If that isn't the AD we are talking about someone with better info please chime in.

    Hank

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    • #17
      Actually that is the bendix, the acs had that problem but it requires the back to be replaced and fresh lube every 2000 hours. It also specifies a diode if you have starter contact.
      N29787
      '41 BC12-65

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      • #18
        No switch activated starter on mine. I have a Hemingway starter. ;-)

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        • #19
          I average around 200-250 hours a year. My Taylorcraft accounts for about 25-30 hours of that per year, although that will be higher now that my daughter is flying. My Navajo gets around 150 hours per year and the rest of the time is in neighbors' planes. This year is a little off due to corona but overall, an OK year flying time wise because we kept escaping to our farm in Maine during the lock down. Nothing else to do.
          The future, who knows. I was recently in Sanford, Maine and Indianapolis Metro. Both had very busy flight schools with lots of GA activity. Was heartening to see.

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          • #20
            Good morning,
            does anyone have a service manual for a 1940 BC-65 or have knowledge of how to change the bungees? My IA just arrived and told me he has never changed bungees on a Tcraft, even though he has tube and fabric experience. I didn't think it was that hard but he is talking about removing the gear, seats and interior. Is all that necessary? we are in the hangar today, if possible please call me at 410-610-5340 since i won't be online if anyone responds.
            I am also looking for advice on how to lean the Marvel carb that's on my Tcraft. it is running rich and fouls the plugs.
            thank you

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            • #21
              How far from Virginia Beach is Milton Delaware? NO! You do NOT have to take the whole plane apart!!! Seats and sling out but you SURE don't need to pull the gear. It isn't a bad idea to check the bushings while the planes weight is off the gear but no reason to pull the gear! It IS fairly simple to take the doors off and it does keep them out of the way, but you can also just tie them to the boot cowl.

              Hank

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              • #22
                Hello everyone.
                Thanks to all who called me. Hank contacted me not long after I posted and walked me through the bungee process. I got the old ones off and the new ones on. not bad but the tool my IA had needs a little mod to make it better. It worked but i'm not sure it was for my model Tcraft. It didn't fit quite right. I took lots of pictures and several videos which i will post in the next few days. My bungees were so rotten they didn't even snap as we cut them. After a small cut on the outer edge, they just fell apart.
                Anyway, I learned a lot today and hope my pics and videos will help others. It really is an easy job with the correct tool and someone to show or explain what to do.
                Hank, thanks again and thanks again to all who called and texted me.
                Eddie Cammack

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                • #23
                  I can't find a photo of the bungee tool I have but we need to find out where they all are so we can share them from the closest location. Whoever it was that made mine with the square tube and sliders to hold the cords in place it is really a quality tool that make the job much easier and safer. If you will be changing yours in the near future we need the maker to chime in so people can get them again. Embarrassing that I can't remember who made mine. We all get old and I am going to dope slap myself when he chimes in!

                  Hank

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                  • #24
                    Well I have 3
                    N29787
                    '41 BC12-65

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                    • #25
                      Hank...

                      Probably David Rude....

                      Mike Wood
                      Montgomery, TX
                      '46 BC12D
                      N44085 #9885

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                      • #26
                        i'll ask my IA where he bought his. It is the same as Hank describes but the tube which holds the jack screw is too long, so when in place the legs that hold the new bungees are too short. This required that we pry the new bungee loops up over the legs and then begin to turn the screw to raise them into position. It was a pain to try to hold the tool, then pry without gouging off the zinc chromate on the frame and not hurt the new bungees, all with two sets of hands in a Tcraft. Once the loops were on the legs, it worked perfectly and the keepers hold the bungees from slipping off. I will take pics and post. We could remove the screw and cut off the tube by an inch or two and then this tool would be perfect. That's why i said maybe it was for a different Taylorcraft.
                        I will try to update about the tool and pics in the next couple of days. I need to figure out how to shrink my video file sizes so I can upload.
                        Thanks again everyone.

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                        • #27
                          Question, Is it unacceptable to add a 3rd bungee as a stop gap in doing a complete change out 1 9010HD each side as a interm fix for sagging bungees

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by jstall View Post
                            Question, Is it unacceptable to add a 3rd bungee as a stop gap in doing a complete change out 1 9010HD each side as a interm fix for sagging bungees
                            If you are going to the trouble of installing one, why not remove one first?

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by 3Dreaming View Post

                              If you are going to the trouble of installing one, why not remove one first?
                              Having to jack it up and secure the gear, I wouldn't dare cut one w/o jacking if I go to that trouble, might as well change em all, at this point don't have a cherry picker

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                              • #30
                                I don't know how old yours are but mine were like dried pasta. My daughter had a hard bounce with me a couple of months ago on a blacktop runway and they started to sag after that. they were so dried, brittle and rotten I'd say they were a good bounce or two away from breaking, especially if heavy. Due to what i saw, I'd say no to adding a third to two old ones. Also, I think it would be hard to roll a third over the top of the other two. They are under a lot of tension.

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