Originally posted by astjp2
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BC12D landing gear needed
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Wag Aero and Aircraft Spruce sell stream lined tubing the size of the tie strut 1.349 major axis, but I was wondering if you can find streamline tubing to make a repair Like Forrest describes on a thread I read on the forum, that says cut the strut 4inches down do a splice and go from there , I think he is describing a tubing splice with an internal doubler , I cannot seem to find any streamlined tubing the size that would fit internally. Any one know of sources.
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If the diagonal strut is corroded why would it be spliced, especially the lower portion where moisture is likely to settle and corrosion occur? Maybe the upper end and lower solid portion would be salvageable? Just a question not being contrary.
I can see if it's bent but airworthy then a repair can be done. Mine has one documented as being repaired by the inner sleve method per AC...............
GaryN36007 1941 BF12-65 STC'd as BC12D-4-85
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Gary, typically the corrosion is only in the bottom end. If when the strut is cut off 4" from the top and there is corrosion splicing in a new lower section is not an option. Splicing in 4 " from the top is much easier than welding in a complete strut at the upper cluster.Originally posted by PA1195 View PostIf the diagonal strut is corroded why would it be spliced, especially the lower portion where moisture is likely to settle and corrosion occur? Maybe the upper end and lower solid portion would be salvageable? Just a question not being contrary.
I can see if it's bent but airworthy then a repair can be done. Mine has one documented as being repaired by the inner sleve method per AC...............
Gary
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Thank you for the response. I wondered how this procedure was done and when older parts can be used. From my experience it's possible to have openings at the top cluster. Can that be sealed, and if so why is it normally still open?
When I had my various Piper lift struts examined for corrosion I can vaguely recall pictures that showed contrasting metal in the lower strut. I didn't know what that meant other than they either passed or failed.
What criteria are used to determine airworthiness by the facility? Do they figure out remaining metal thickness and strength? Or does any corrosion disqualify the part? Maybe it's been discussed here and I need to read that.
I did recently see a local landing gear that had the diagonal replaced with round tubing and should go and look better at that repair.
From the FAA's recommendation in Post #3:
"Repair or replace any strut suspected or confirmed to have corrosion. We also recommend you repeat the inspection annually. Failure to detect and replace a corroded MLG tie strut can result in failure of the main landing gear with concurrent damage to the airframe structure."
Note this disclaimer:
SAIB:
CE-11-05
SUBJ: Main Landing Gear
Date:
December 3, 2010
This is information only. Recommendations aren’t mandatory.
GaryLast edited by PA1195; 05-11-2019, 11:24.N36007 1941 BF12-65 STC'd as BC12D-4-85
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Wicks is another... also: https://www.aedmotorsport.com/store/materials/4130-chrome-moly-streamline-tube-1 they seem to have a good selection.I cannot seem to find any streamlined tubing the size that would fit internally. Any one know of sources.
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Thanks a bunch for the source for streamlined tubing its says right in the ad that the next smaller size tubing from there 1.360 will slip fit into it . That would make an internal splice.Last edited by waltermrich; 05-11-2019, 14:26.
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Can you not insert a round tube inside and weld it to the streamlined.Originally posted by waltermrich View PostWag Aero and Aircraft Spruce sell stream lined tubing the size of the tie strut 1.349 major axis, but I was wondering if you can find streamline tubing to make a repair Like Forrest describes on a thread I read on the forum, that says cut the strut 4inches down do a splice and go from there , I think he is describing a tubing splice with an internal doubler , I cannot seem to find any streamlined tubing the size that would fit internally. Any one know of sources.Sully
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Would you have a picture or two of this? I'm wondering how it looks, if the splice "blends in" with the bungee covers once the gear is reinstalled.What I have done in the past is go with the next size larger tube. Cut off 4" down and slide over the existing tube, and do 1/2 of the splice.
Perhaps this is why some tie struts are open on the top end? Difficult to get a torch tip and weld around the cluster?Splicing in 4 " from the top is much easier than welding in a complete strut at the upper cluster.
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Sorry, I don't have any pictures. It has been several years. You can see the where it is welded in, but it is tucked up under the fuselage. If you do both most people will not know it was not original.Originally posted by Mike S View PostWould you have a picture or two of this? I'm wondering how it looks, if the splice "blends in" with the bungee covers once the gear is reinstalled.
Perhaps this is why some tie struts are open on the top end? Difficult to get a torch tip and weld around the cluster?
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main gear fitting bolts, rear.jpgAfter having new tie struts welded in I put the gear back on the plane a while ago. Thought I'd replace the bushings and bolts too, even though there's a good quarter inch of steel left on the old bolts ;-)
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This is the issue with mechanics who don't really know the airplane. If the airplane had been hoisted to check the gear the bolts or bushings would have never went this far. I replaced bushings and bolts one one this year that the screw for the oil reservoir was covered with fabric, and it had been that way for 40 years. One of the upper bushings was completely gone, nothing to drive out. I could tell there were issues when the fellow who was propping the airplane tested the brakes.Originally posted by Mike S View Postmain gear fitting bolts, rear.jpgAfter having new tie struts welded in I put the gear back on the plane a while ago. Thought I'd replace the bushings and bolts too, even though there's a good quarter inch of steel left on the old bolts ;-)
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