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I actually have several, but they are on doors and I have tried just about EVERYTHING to get those off. I am in SE Virginia (A LOOOOONG ways from Petaluma!) but if you could figure a way to get them loose from the shafts there are several people who have told me they want one of mine (I have a stack of doors for post war planes, mostly in bad condition, and the newest plane I have is a 45.
If I could just get ONE off we could make a mold and make new ones. Any ideas?
I actually have several, but they are on doors and I have tried just about EVERYTHING to get those off. I am in SE Virginia (A LOOOOONG ways from Petaluma!) but if you could figure a way to get them loose from the shafts there are several people who have told me they want one of mine (I have a stack of doors for post war planes, mostly in bad condition, and the newest plane I have is a 45.
If I could just get ONE off we could make a mold and make new ones. Any ideas?
I used a 1/8th punch in my rivet gun to remove the roll pins. Put a tip/shoulder on the punch so it locates accurately in the centre of the roll pin (without expanding it). Once the pins are out, some release oil and heat from a heat gun should get it twisting and then off.
alternatively you can go inside and grind the welds off the end of the shaft, remove the bellcrank and slide the handle and shaft out and deal with the removal on the bench.
I used a 1/8th punch in my rivet gun to remove the roll pins. Put a tip/shoulder on the punch so it locates accurately in the centre of the roll pin (without expanding it). Once the pins are out, some release oil and heat from a heat gun should get it twisting and then off.
alternatively you can go inside and grind the welds off the end of the shaft, remove the bellcrank and slide the handle and shaft out and deal with the removal on the bench.
I seem to recall that the components were brazed, rather than welded. But I pretty much did what Scott describes as well. Some pictures here
I have molded several parts. This one would require an armature inside to carry the loads. Probably a metal core with a casting resin exterior. I may have to pick the worst condition door to take the handle from. It won't matter if the shaft is stuck in it when the mold is made, but it will probably tear the door up getting it free. The molded handles WOULD NOT be Magnesium. They would be a resin. I would need to do some studies to determine which type would stand up best.
Tried again yesterday to get a handle off. I have six that are stuck on metal doors. The things are a BEAST to get off! Next I will try grinding the welds as suggested. I REALLY don't want to destroy a door to get a handle!
I actually think that is a nicer looking one than original (not trying to get a legalities discussion going here!) "MY interpretation" would be that the handle is part of the "cockpit interior" and doesn't have to be original (vs "upholstery"), but I would probably just not point it out to a Fed. ;-)
Hank
Also helps that the factory used SO MANY different control wheels, knobs and door handles through the production runs! AMAZING what you can see in the old factory photos that they made on the line when a part wasn't available. You just need to get Chets book and look really close at details.
I am somewhat amazed that a source for the door handle, (the typical BC-12 door handle), has not been found. The glove box door handle mystery, a 1940 Chevy truck ashtray handle, was finally solved and the elevator trim handle, Model A window riser, was also solved.
Good point, Dave, I forgot about the material. Just doesn't make sense as to WHY they would do that. Cost difference couldn't have been that big of an issue, could it?
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