N 96872

[N96337]

Re: N 96872

Loren Lemmon (SP?) from Lycon swears the REM37BY plugs give better performance in both lead problems as well in horsepower increases. He says they consistantly see better power on the dyno, and I tend to believe him. He's one sharp guy!
John

[PA1195]

Re: N 96872

My intent in mentioning the Short Plugs wasn't to drift from the OP's thread about his plane project. My apologies if there's a perceived problem.

If the plugs allow more cowl clearance than that's a benefit. Apparently it was an issue on my plane that was solved by their installation. I don't know yet as the engine is out for overhaul and the plane is in another city in Alaska. It'll be weeks before it's reassembled and I can fly.

And yes, there are Internet reports of reduced lead fouling and improved performance. Even though they're listed as a colder heat range the extended exposed tip may run hotter.

[Joe cooper]

Re: N 96872

My intent in mentioning the Short Plugs wasn't to drift from the OP's thread about his plane project. My apologies if there's a perceived problem.

If the plugs allow more cowl clearance than that's a benefit. Apparently it was an issue on my plane that was solved by their installation. I don't know yet as the engine is out for overhaul and the plane is in another city in Alaska. It'll be weeks before it's reassembled and I can fly.

And yes, there are Internet reports of reduced lead fouling and improved performance. Even though they're listed as a colder heat range the extended exposed tip may run hotter.

. I used them in an 85 hp cont. In a champ for cowl clearance. They worked very well.

[TimHicks]

Re: N 96872

I installed the Tempest plugs on the tops of all 4 cylinders. They really are a lot shorter. I was hoping that they would completely solve my problem and I just wouldn't need to use the aluminum cowl bumps that I just made.
But for both back plugs, you can see that the clearance was still too small for my comfort.
So I removed the fiberglass cowl bumps and plan to rivet the new aluminum ones on in new locations that give me the clearance I want.

[3Dreaming]

Re: N 96872

One thing I have done before is disassemble the lead and shorten the small nut by half its thickness. It doesn't gain much, but I thought it was enough. This was also on a clip wing in the experimental category.

[TimHicks]

Re: N 96872

One thing that I would like to do is repair the spark plug wire that was abraded by rubbing on the edge of the hole in the cutout.
I've got lots of available length (well, a couple of extra inches anyway) in the plug wire. Is there some way to cut off and remake the termination on the end of the wire?

[Robert Lees]

Re: N 96872

There is, but I'm not in a place where I can recall the parts/tools required.

Basically you cut out the bad wire and re-use most of the aluminium terminals (if not all). You have to cut the braiding (shielding) to the original length, so you lose what you cut away. In fact, on a brief recollection, you don't need any new parts at all. But you do need a tool to swage the braiding. It's a special tool, but any decent engine shop will have one (it looks like a welding clamp with an open hoop).

I'm sure someone will pipe in with a picture. I'll try to get one tomorrow.

Rob

[barnstmr]

Re: N 96872

Tim,
If you don't have the special tools to do the job right, I don't recommend going down the road yourself. I got into this and have had a terrible time of it without proper tools. I recently got my ignition wires back together, but this was after many trials and errors.... mostly errors. Very time consuming. I had to develop my own method for unravelling the braided shielding without damaging the inner core insulation then came up with heat shrink and all sorts of tricks and hand made rig-ups that I cant even explain. Believe me, not fun. Radial engines Ltd acquired all the tools and materials from Aerolite about a year ago and they do a good job.... but they are proud of them. But rightfully so in my opinion after what I went thru.

[astjp2]

Re: N 96872

I buy new wires and put RTV on them where they are rubbing or some high temp spiral wrap....but I think wires are cheaper than going for that silent ride if one fails! You know, that quiet time where you begin to sweat a lot during the glide! Tim

[Robert Lees]

Re: N 96872

There is, but I'm not in a place where I can recall the parts/tools required.

Basically you cut out the bad wire and re-use most of the aluminium terminals (if not all). You have to cut the braiding (shielding) to the original length, so you lose what you cut away. In fact, on a brief recollection, you don't need any new parts at all. But you do need a tool to swage the braiding. It's a special tool, but any decent engine shop will have one (it looks like a welding clamp with an open hoop).

I'm sure someone will pipe in with a picture. I'll try to get one tomorrow.

Rob

Well I took some pics of the expertly-crafted, highly-expensive, very specialised high-tech tool. You can see that no expense was spared in its design, construction & maintenance :

[TimHicks]

Re: N 96872

Thanks, Rob, Tim and Terry. I'll tell my IA that it is not a job for us. The damage is not bad. just the outer casing is worn through. I may just put some red RTV over it and turn it to the inside so it is less noticeable.

[3Dreaming]

Re: N 96872

I bought some tools and inventory from a shop that was closing last year, and I may have an extra one of these tools.

[Mark Julicher]

Re: N 96872

Awesome report Tim!

I made my cowl bumps a while back and they did not come out as nice as yours. I did however, figure out how to reduce the cracking and scrap. I use a Tempil Stick, 490 degrees F, and anneal the aluminum at intermediate steps.

At a SnF forum in 2001 I asked Kent White why all his demonstrations were done with .050 aluminum - the answer was to be sure there was enough metal on the thin spots.

I like 3003 H-0 for most of my hammered pieces. They work harden and do just fine as the finished piece. Kent White uses H-14 and almost never anneals his work. I wish I had his touch… I'm still practicing.

[TimHicks]

Re: N 96872

I don't have any installed pics, but I riveted the new cowl bumps on and painted them.
I also put the Red RTV on the small spots on the ignition wires that had been abraded.
I flew to a local Fly-In this weekend. No problems. Lots of fun.

[TimHicks]

Re: N 96872

Taken at the fly-in by Jim Riviere