Nose bowl oppening

[Carrieve]

Hi gang,
I am repairing some cracks in my nose bowl and I want to get rid/modify the opening below the prop. My air cleaner is below this and is a rectangular filter. I have the C85-12 with the Stromberg carb. The pipe in the opening is only two inches long and goes to nothing on the backside. I know I need the air inlet to help cool. My question is, can I make it a pure opening and eliminate the baffle?

[3Dreaming]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

You could get rid of the 2" round hole. That is something that has been added. The baffle as you call it is to direct air up to the crankcase baffle that mounts under the intake spider.

[astjp2]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

That hole must also direct the air to another baffle that is located above the spider, it is a major way of cooling the case and the oil that splashes on it. Tim

[ClipWing_T]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

My BC12-D was missing the spider shaped cooling duct . You must have the hole open in the summer time for sure .
Even with new baffles and exhaust a new duct above the intake spider .....it still ran hot in Texas summers and I would
put duct tape over the opening in snow . Yes it snows in East Texas sometimes lol...So, Don't close the hole in the nose bowl.
:-)

[cvavon]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

I disagree with not closing the center hole my plane has had a plate over the hole when i bought it and that was with a A65 it is closed now with the C85 my oil temp NEVER goes over 200 deg in the summer on c85 the A65 ran 195 deg winter or summer now the new baffles that are on the new engine are very well made and seal very good as in making it a pressure cowl and there is none of that sheet metal under my engine makes it easy to inspect spider and carb also rubber seal around air box so air goes in the top and out the bottom not in on both sides

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

Before anyone else tries what Chuck did please understand that he DOES NOT have a normal cowl! That engine compartment has a LOT of modifications and really is a poor mans pressure cowl. It also has an oil filter that he is using as a small oil cooler and a different exhaust that is much more efficient at getting exhaust heat out of the cowl (and I still worry about localized heating on the bottom of the case, we need to do some heat crayon marks there, just to be sure).
If he had only taken away the square hole under the prop I am betting he could use the top cowl for the griddle at the local pancake breakfast fly-in.
Hank

Don't try this at home, Your results SURE AS H**L will vary!

By the way, the offset thrust line in the first picture has been corrected.

[cvavon]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

Hank my a65-8f also had the canter closed up also but it did have the old baffles. Oh buy the way i have this set of baffies and they are for sail if any one needs them

[Norm G]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

I'm going to need a set of baffles fairly soon. My boot cowl is in place on my 1941 BC12, next is engine work. Please let me know what you want for baffles.
Thanks
Norm G

[ClipWing_T]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

Hi everyone , Hank , I love those exhaust stacks and yes that is not even anything like the stock T-Craft . That nose bowl and setup would be perfect for a 100 hp clipwing. My Taylorcraft ran hot in the summer (100 degree +). I used the crayons
and they didn't melt so I just flew it . .....oil pressure was always very good in heat. I have a fiberglass nosebowl with no
opening like the one in the lower picture . JMO :-) . Love Taylorcrafts !!!!!

[astjp2]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

Those were Aeronca Chief exhaust, I wound up putting on mufflers to replace those because I froze my ass off in spring and fall, they produced absolutely no heat for the cabin. He could install the c-150 baffling under the crank case with a small hole in the cowl like the 140 has, it works the same as the original setup and is readily available. Tim

Before anyone else tries what Chuck did please understand that he DOES NOT have a normal cowl! That engine compartment has a LOT of modifications and really is a poor mans pressure cowl. It also has an oil filter that he is using as a small oil cooler and a different exhaust that is much more efficient at getting exhaust heat out of the cowl (and I still worry about localized heating on the bottom of the case, we need to do some heat crayon marks there, just to be sure).
If he had only taken away the square hole under the prop I am betting he could use the top cowl for the griddle at the local pancake breakfast fly-in.
Hank

Don't try this at home, Your results SURE AS H**L will vary!

By the way, the offset thrust line in the first picture has been corrected.

[N96337]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

I still worry about localized heating on the bottom of the case, we need to do some heat crayon marks there, just to be sure).
Hank

.

Chuck, the Evershield that I mentioned to you the other day, if applied to the heat muffs and exhaust, will make a tremendous difference on inside cowl temps. You wont believe how much until you try it. I've done a few that way and alot of testing. I'd be glad to chat with you on it more.
John

[cvavon]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

Thanks John will give you a call i read the catalog about it chuck

[Carrieve]

Re: Nose bowl oppening

I am going to keep the rectangle opening as has been noted to keep the air flowing to the crankcase baffle. I am going to make a new baffle to get rid of the round hole and an ugly patch someone put in years ago (not me). I have never had a cooling problem even on the hottest days up here in northern Wisconsin. I will post a pic of the new opening when complete and let the gang know the results.