cowling hinge

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: cowling hinge

If you get stainless it should be a lot better for wear and cracks at the ends. Just make sure you prime and paint all surfaces before riveting to the aluminum cowl metal. SS and Aluminum have some corrosion problems that could cause you to lose the cowl if undetected. Can't wait to see if the SS hinge is the same.
In the mean time I found the cable and have attached the photos. May take a couple of messages.
Hank

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: cowling hinge

First picture is of the front hinge fitting I made by hammering the metal and welding and filing. Tried to make it just like the ones in old photos. Second shows another view as well as the clip that does the actual holding of the front of the hinge. Third is an end view of the hinge I straightened assembled showing how the pieces slip together. If there is any bends it jams and won't move. Forth and fifth are the clip that covers the aft end of the hinge

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: cowling hinge

OK, one day I will figure out how to comment on the photos IN the message instead of after I post them. The first three show the restored hinge for the 41 with all of the fittings. the forth is an end view of the center piece (note the crack) and the fifth and sixth are end views of the side pieces.
Hank

Sorry about the focus. I really need a SLR digital camera.

[jdoran]

Re: cowling hinge

This is not original, but it works the same way:

http://www.select-hinges.com/products/geared-hinges/geared-full-surface-hinges.html

Ingersoll Rand used them for hoods on air compressors for 10 years or more.

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: cowling hinge

Do they make it without the "gears"? With that design both sides of the top cowl would have to be opened together. I open teh Starboard side to check the oil and port side to check the gascolator, but not both at the same time. In fact one is at the very beginning of the pre-flight and the other at the end.
Hank

[M Towsley]

Re: cowling hinge

Those are geared hinges to open both sides at the same time. I don't think those would work.

We must be looking and commenting at the same time, Hank.

[Laz]

Re: cowling hinge

Ok here is the hinge problem resolved. It will Not be Aluminum, but it is a perfect match. If you are worried about the stainless reacting with the aluminum, you can buy the matching fittings in steel and rivet them to the cowl. The place to order from is Sachse Rod Shop . You can Google for the web address. They have two sises 32 inch for 20 buck and 48 inch for 25 buck. the matching steel parts are 39 bucks. They are an Exact match of the original T-craft hinge. The stainless is polished. The Hot Rod Guys there say I should pick up at least 10 knots.

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: cowling hinge

WAY COOL! Believe me the work involved in repairing the old ones makes the price of new a bargain. The Stainless in contact with aluminum problem is easy to solve, just put an insulating layer between them before you wet set the rivets. A layer of Poly-sulfide sealant or even prime and paint before assembly would be fine. You just don't want bare aluminum in close contact with the SS when there could be water in there.
If you get one of the hinges we need photos! Do they have the end pieces too?
Hank

[Ray36048]

Re: cowling hinge

Hank, check it out. Page 215 of the catalog.

http://www.sachserodshop.com/web_body.pdf

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: cowling hinge

Great catalog. There are pictures on 219 and 225 of what looks like 41 outside door handles!
Hank

[astjp2]

Re: cowling hinge

Dahlstrom Roll form is probably the original maker, they built the J tubing for the doors and several other formed pieces. Tim