Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

[1938BF50]

I would like to hear some real world discussion on the merits of a steerable tailwheel versus a full swivel. I have an excellent condition (fully restored) Heath on my 1938 B. I have not yet flown this aircraft since purchase (4) short years ago. All is looking well for having it back in the air this spring. I am a relatively new pilot with approx 100hrs....50 of that in the Cub. I have zero experience with a steerable tailwheel. What can I expect of this tailwheel? What type of spring pressure should I have on the rudder arms? Attached are a couple pics of the tailwheel before restoration.

[TimHicks]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

About a year ago, a couple of pieces of the locking mechanism of my steerable tailwheel wore enough to effectively turn mine into a fill swivel tailwheel. It was miserable. I couldn't get it pointed in the right direction on the ground. I flew it several times. I wish I hadn't. Overhauling the tailwheel fixed the problem.
I first noticed the condition when I tried landing in a slight downwind (on a short strip with trees at the other end). When my groundspeed slowed to the windspeed, I had no control and went into the weeds. Fortunately, I didn't hurt the airplane. Stupid.

[3Dreaming]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Mike, I put a Heath (Taylorcraft) tail wheel on my BL when I restored it. It worked OK, but my springs were a little weak, so the steering was not very positive. If the steering is the same between the two I doubt you will be able to tell a difference on the ground. With the steerable it will turn 90 degrees if the springs are not to tight. The big difference is moving the airplane by pushing it around. With the steerable tailwheel you have to pick up the tail to move it backwards unless you have some kind of tow bar. Picking it up was not a problem, but if you have a bad back, shoulder, or the ground is rough it might be a problem. Tom

[1938BF50]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

What is "too tight" on the springs? Right now I have maybe 5# on each side in the neutral position. If I add another link they are loose to the point of hanging.

[M Towsley]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Mike,

On my first two T-Crafts I had the same tailwheel as yours, absolutely no problem whatsoever. You sacrifice a little bit of ground handling if you want to pivot around the main gear while turning at the end of the runway or while parking. I made do without any problems. You also won't have the problem related above when the lock doesn't lock anymore.

Your tailwheel is also the 'correct' one for your airplane. The only more correct one would be obtaining one that said 'Taylor' on one side of the steering arm and 'Craft' on the other, Heath made them both. There is one on Ebay right now, in fact.

My current T-Craft has a Maule full swivel tailwheel. It does come in handy when moving the aircraft around on the ground and in the hangar, as well as a little bit better ground handling as Tom said.

You do not want the springs sagging or hanging, they should be taut. How taut, I cannot tell you. Both of my planes came set-up just fine. They both had a little tension to begin with. I have never seen the set-up you have to attach the springs to the rudder and tailwheel arms. My springs attached directly to both arms. From the pictures you posted that looks like my first two set-ups on my prior T-Crafts. You will probably pick up a little tension when the tailwheel is on the ground and the weight is on the wheel.

[Carl E. Carson]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Mike: I have both kinds, a Maule and the Heath. I'm currently flying with the Heath as it is "original." I also own a "Taildragger Dragger" to pull the plane into my hangar which really saves my back.

Carl

[dmcneil]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Hi Mike,

I've had a steerable (non-swiveling) tailwheel on my Taylor Cub for years. The Scott, Heath and Air Associates tailwheels all work well. The only problem, as others have already mentioned, is the need to pick up the tail to move the airplane backwards. Taxiing is a non-issue as is maneuvering in close quarters on the ramp.

Spring tension is a trade-off. Too loose and the taxi steering feels a little sloppy. Too tight and the steering becomes a little twitchy at higher landing speeds. One other thing to keep in mind... if you loose a steering spring on one side, a too tight spring on the opposite side can pull the tailwheel to that side. Not a good thing to have happen on a non-swiveling tailwheel.

I have my steering springs set up with a small amount of tension. I'm guessing about 5 lbs. It's a reasonable compromise between good taxi handling and acceptable three-point landing sensitivity.

Have fun! Your airplane looks wonderful.

Dan

[Pearson]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Mike, The set up you have should work just fine. My only suggestion is to "Mouse" the forward end of the springs. Mousing uses safety wire to help reduce the chance of losing a spring. There are photos of mousing on Rob Lee's restoration website. After you have a little time using the Heath, try flying with someone that has a full swivelling tailwheel. As long as it is properly maintained and locks up and unlocks as it is suppose to, it is no harder to use than a non swivelling. The only difference between the two shows up when you are parking and need to pivot on one of the mains.

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Mouse looks like this. Tie off all ends that could pop loose by mousing. When one spring pops our landing get REALLY exciting!
Hank

[cvavon]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

tribe

I built this to help me move air planes in and out of hanger works well on rough ground over door tracts and you can see the wing tips well chuck

[mike lutz]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Another good way to mouse your springs is to go to your local hobby shop,and get a package of wheel collars that is used to hold the wheels on model aircraft.A couple fellows in my area kept shucking the springs off their rudder arm,and put theese on and no more problems.They look just like miniture set collars and come in different sizes.Just a proven suggestion.Mine are saftey wired on my AcroII,and have not had any problem.
Mike Lutz

[Guest]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

tribe

I built this to help me move air planes in and out of hanger works well on rough ground over door tracts and you can see the wing tips well chuck

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the picture!

I just got back from Northern Tool. I went there to get a a trailer dolly (on sale for $29) it includes the main steering arm, axle and 2 pneumatic tires (plus a trailer tow ball). I planned to modify into something to use on my tailwheel to get the a/c out of the hangar.

Your picture is a big help. Its timely and a terrific item for me to emulate.

Thanks!

Dave

[Bob Waldron]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Mike,

I have a 1939 BL-65 with the Heath tailwheel. I wouldn't trade it for anything (except for one that says Taylor and Craft). The only problem is having to lift the tail when you want to push the plane backwards. One thing that nobody has mentioned is that the Heath is the LIGHTEST of the tailwheels. Light is GOOD.

[skipilot]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Scott 3200 only way to go.

[Forrest Barber]

Re: Steerable tailwheel vs. Full swivel?

Heath ( or any non-swivel) is best for low time pilot. They cannot kick out. Get rid of the non standard attach hardware , they put a twisting moment onto the tail wheel arms , not good to lose an arm. Tension is just barely snug put them on even . IF you want to take one link out to make it tighter do it on the right side . I have pic , can't find it this morning.