Reading Mark Julicher's posting on the Fuel Tank repair shop thread caused me to wonder what terneplate is. I am about to R&R both of my wing tanks and was planning on welding up the tanks myself. Is there any special procedure for welding this material?
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terneplate
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Re: terneplate
tin/lead coated steel; inexpensive and old method for corrosion control.
welding would cause some pretty toxic fumes from the tin/lead. I recall soldering the stuff, not welding, maybe.Bob Ollerton
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Sand off the tin or lead coating to leave bare steel at the area to be welded... this is what I heard from someone with gray hair.Taylorcraft : Making Better Aviators for 75 Years... and Counting
Bill Berle
TF#693
http://www.ezflaphandle.com
http://www.grantstar.net
N26451 (1940 BL(C)-65) 1988-90
N47DN (Auster Autocrat) 1992-93
N96121 (1946 BC-12D-85) 1998-99
N29544 (1940 BL(C)-85) 2005-08
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Re: terneplate
Thanks guys! Now I know why the tanks leak so easily. I thought they were either aluminum or plain old sheet steel with real welding on the seams.
Has anyone soldered a fuel tank lately? Did you use plain old acid core solder, or silver solder? Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated.
All I need now is for the FAA to let me know if my 337 for replacing the fabric on top with sheet aluminum will be approved. After eight weeks, they still haven't approved or disapproved it. I had hoped to have this done before the Columbia, CA fly-in, but that obviously isn't going to happen.Richard Pearson
N43381
Fort Worth, Texas
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Re: terneplate
You would use a lead based solder, not acid core, use good flux, or take it to a radiator shop where they have the right materials and equipment for the repairs......that is what I did for mine, I have a half inch layer where my fuel valve goes into the tank to support the base metal. Good luck TimN29787
'41 BC12-65
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One of the most important things before welding (or soldering) a fuel tank is to make sure you have good health insurance. It only takes a TINY few drops of fuel to be trapped in the seams to vaporize and make one H**L of an explosion when the tanks starts to heat up! A GOOD radiator shop will know how to purge the tank with inert gas so the mixture can't explode. You CAN'T reliably remove all the fuel, and businesses that have suffered an explosion will verify that. Tanks will still explode after being flushed for DAYS with water, the "old hand" who flushed it with truck exhaust was just plain LUCKY. There is still PLENTY of oxygen left in automotive exhaust to allow for an explosive mixture (although I have seen a few trucks that might have worked, their exhaust would have been so thick you couldn't have welded, much less breathed. Remember exhaust kills you with CO, not removal of O2).
Be safe and take it to a good fuel tank or radiator repair shop and let THEM remove all their windows!
Hank
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Re: terneplate
The safest way to solder these tanks is with an old fashioned soldering iron that you heat with a torch. 2 reasons, it keeps fire away from the gas and also does not overheat the tank. When you overheat the tank you will chase that soldered seam all the way around. A substantial piece of copper, approx 1" square and 3 or 4 in. long will make a fine iron. Taper the end to a blunt point, thread a handle and there you go. PA-12 tanks are the same material, that is why 12's all have a fuel stain on the wings, they all leak. Use less heat rather than more to start, the heat transfers very well and does not take much to melt the solder. A welding supply store can probably best advise on solder and flux. Be sure your tank is seated securely, "oilcanning" or flexing due to poor installation will flex the seams apart. I do not think they can successfully be welded. Jim
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Re: terneplate
Originally posted by N95334 View PostTalking about fuel tanks, my wing tanks are uck! I put some fuel in them and went to drain the sump and this ugly goo came out looking like dirty honey. Any sugestions on how to clean them out?
Is, or was auto fuel used in your tanks? I had a similar problem with one wing tank. The guy before me filled it with mogas and left it that way over a winter before I bought it from him. Most of the fuel evaporated, and that might have caused it. Sorry I don't have a solution, but I was thinking that if it was residue from old mogas, it might be pretty easy to get that out with some solvent sloshing around and drained. Might take a few trips around the pattern...??Mike
NC29624
1940 BC65
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