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  • Poly Fiber

    You can't buy the Poly Tak glue in any less than a pint can. I've tried everything I can think of to preserve the glue from hardening after opening it up. Most repairs only use a tiny bit of glue, but it seems you have to pitch the rest out because you might not use it for another 6 months to a year.

    I was thinking about taking a pint can and pouring it into a bunch of plastic 35mm film canisters or something like that to minimize the waste.

    Anyone figure out a good way to store this stuff?

    Nothing is more frustrating than to go use it and find out it's solid as a rock.
    John 3728T

  • #2
    Re: Poly Fiber

    John,

    You can buy new paint cans at most automotive type paint stores. Home Depot, or Lowes might also have them. Also I have seen baby food jars used, but I don't know how long they last. The paint might eat the rubber seal on the lid.
    Richard Pearson
    N43381
    Fort Worth, Texas

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    • #3
      Re: Poly Fiber

      John, I remember storing the resin and hardener in the freezer between uses to slow down the reaction to the air. Worked good for me, may work on poly fiber products as well. Buzz

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      • #4
        Re: Poly Fiber

        I add a liberal dose of MEK to the polytak before closing the lid for storage.

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        • #5
          Re: Poly Fiber

          Originally posted by Robert Lees View Post
          I add a liberal dose of MEK to the polytak before closing the lid for storage.
          But doesn't that effect it's stickyness? Brie

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          • #6
            Re: Poly Fiber

            It does (a bit) but I tend to use it diluted a little anyway.

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            • #7
              Re: Poly Fiber

              Thanks for the tips so far.

              I found that if it gets to about a jello consistency, you can still save it with MEK, but after jello-you are dead in the water.

              A friend told me to breathe into the can before sealing it up-supposedly you are displacing the oxygen (with bad breath) that will keep the stuff from hardening.

              The same friend told me he does it with paint cans before sealing them, and has never even had a skin form since doing so.
              John 3728T

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              • #8
                Re: Poly Fiber

                The difference with polytak is that it's an air drying product.

                Cleaning the hole & lid with MEK (and letting it dry before sealing) helps to keep the air out.

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                • #9
                  Re: Poly Fiber

                  I just add some mek to keep it soft before I put the lid on it, I think that I used about a gallon when I recovered mine, not much waste....
                  N29787
                  '41 BC12-65

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                  • #10
                    Re: Poly Fiber

                    An old body man's trick! try using a pint paint can, or smaller can, whichever has the least amount of air in it, then put the lid on tight, turn the can over, let it set a day or two upside down, then flip back upright ,it will stay good for a long time, provided it does not get a lot of temperature changes, say from 30 degrees to 90 degrees. The contents seems to seal the lid on extra good.It always works for me. Jack

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                    • #11
                      Re: Poly Fiber

                      Put it in a mustard like squeeze bottle. The cap fits tight, and its easy to squeeze out as little, or as much as you need. You will end up using much less poly tack. Should be able to get away with less than 12oz of glue to cover an entire cub type airplane.
                      Jason

                      Former BC12D & F19 owner
                      TF#689
                      TOC

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                      • #12
                        Re: Poly Fiber

                        I put a new steel seal in the spout before I recap it. Seems to work well. Got the seals same place I got my PolyTac,from Norm Douthit. Larry Huntley

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                        • #13
                          Re: Poly Fiber

                          I'm with Jack, sort of...

                          Turn the can over. I just store them that way (upside down) and it always works.
                          John
                          New Yoke hub covers
                          www.skyportservices.net

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                          • #14
                            Re: Poly Fiber

                            It requires a little expenditure of money but poly-fiber products are not cheap! Or perhaps a group can split the cost. The best way to preserve poly fiber materials, especially those requiring an activator, is to purge the can with nitrogen just before sealing. A small bottle is about $20.00 at my supplier. A inert gas regulator and some vinyl tubing and you are in business. It is the moisture that causes these products to cure, especially the activator. Uncover the can for as little time as required and purge with nitrogen before sealing and your product will stay good for a long time. Jim

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                            • #15
                              Re: Poly Fiber

                              Another trick we used to use was to put glass balls in the paint to raise the level to the rim before we put the top on. Marbles were good for small jars and something the size of a softball would be good for a gallon. Worked great years ago but I have no idea where to get the big glass balls now. Anybody know where to get metal or glass balls cheap?
                              Hank

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