Got an new lang and steering arm going on. Found a new/old scott 1303 arm. Darn maule anti shimy springs bent my arm. Now to go drill the holes in the arm.
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New lang tail wheel.
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
I put it on my just in case shelf. Got three taylorcrafts on the feild but will think about it. The new one is working grate put in new bushings in the rudder too. Need new hinge pins though. Now that the bushing is tight I need new knurled pins so it will not rotate in the rudder. What are the specs on the pin, how mutch knurling? The curant ones I have are not.Andrew Rozell
N43697
1946 BC12-D
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Wag Aero has just started carrying the A-48 knurled pin in-stock. They just had a batch made if you don't want to make them. Easier, and cheaper, for me to buy them than try to make them.
See this link: http://vb.taylorcraft.org/showthread...ighlight=hingeCheers,
Marty
TF #596
1946 BC-12D N95258
Former owner of:
1946 BC-12D/N95275
1943 L-2B/N3113S
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Feels difrent than the maule. The springs are now correct, not the ainti shimmy ones. gives a softer feal to the steering. Think I need to change the caser angle. It had a shim in with the maule to take out some of the angle(makes the top nut point more up instead of back,it was that way when I got it and worked with no shimy so I never changed it.). Just to dubble check my thinking? You have the pad, then top front leaf, one shim at the front bolt, and the rear leaf. Then the main spring and a pad on the bottem clamp.
Just like to make shure that I put it back on right.Andrew Rozell
N43697
1946 BC12-D
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Tried it the alignment and pull just was not right. Use to do that with the anti shimmy springs. It is a unused arm I found so should last a while plus I got a spare when I bought it. Just in case. The Scott 1303 arm comes with a steel bushing so if you watch it you can just change the bushing. But I like the idea when it fits.Andrew Rozell
N43697
1946 BC12-D
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Springs should be set up like this. Top spring is short on the back, second spring is short on the front, third spring is full length. There is a metal spacer between the front ends of the spring (washers on this one). There is a RUBBER pad between the strap and bottom spring at the back, NOT FELT! It holds water on the spring! There is a bushing in the fuselage the front bolt goes through, DON'T loose it! The spring can rock back and forth with it missing and tear up teh wheel as well as making landings a LOT more exciting than you will want!
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Thanks, it had an extra spacer above the top leaf that the bolt ran threw same thickness as the spring. My guess was to change the caster angle. Next time I go out I will pull the spacer to see how she rides. Got the rubber pad in and I think every thing else is good. Feels different with the new springs, I think my springs where bottoming out with the maul setup. I did find that my rudder was drilled for 3 bolts for the steering arm and the arm only had 2 drilled when I pulled it out. Steel arm too. Never noticed it had fabric over the holes. Drilled the new arm for all 3. Nice though the other hole had no were and had to tap in the new arm so no slop at all.
But that is just the pic I needed Hank. ThanksAndrew Rozell
N43697
1946 BC12-D
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Originally posted by cvavon View Posthere is something i did to keep from wearing the holes with the springs.the I bolts wear instead of the expensive parts.Also the quick link is from AK Bush as are the springs they are heavy duty FAA/PMA.Richard Pearson
N43381
Fort Worth, Texas
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Re: New lang tail wheel.
Originally posted by cvavon View Postold photo when just installed take vise grips and tighten the bend in to the spring and cant come off did this after the photo was taken.Richard Pearson
N43381
Fort Worth, Texas
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