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  • Control Wheel

    I've had the last bit of aerotherapy for a while this morning, ahead of the T-storms on the last day before annual inspection commences. Among the usual chores, I plan to add repaint of the control wheels. Is there anything unusual about the removal that would be good to know beforehand? Looks like a matter of taking the bolt out and pulling or tapping each one off.

    Thanks in advance for any wisdom,

    Mike V.

  • #2
    Re: Control Wheel

    Mike,

    Getting the wheel with the column out is pretty simple. As you said, take the bolt out and pull it out. After that there are some small nuts on the back side that on mine were all rounded off. If yours are in good shape, it shouldn't be a problem. But if they are rounded off, you are going to need some needle nosed vise-grips.

    I would suggest you mark exactly how the columns are mated to the u-joints before you pull them out. Whiteout works well.

    Good luck! Take some pictures for us, if you can.
    Richard Pearson
    N43381
    Fort Worth, Texas

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    • #3
      Re: Control Wheel

      Is the wheel attached to the end of the column in such a way that it can't just be removed and leave the column in place?

      Mike V.

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      • #4
        Re: Control Wheel

        I guess I should have asked which type of control wheel you have. There are the banjo style, pretzel style, and the later cast aluminum style. The small nuts and bolts I was referring to previously is for the pretzel style.

        My project plane has the later cast style, but they have been modified. I think they originally just had a bolt that goes horizontally through both the column and a collar on the wheel. If that is what you have, it is a piece of cake.
        Richard Pearson
        N43381
        Fort Worth, Texas

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        • #5
          Re: Control Wheel

          Mine is the one at top left labelled Magwheel.

          Mike V.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Re: Control Wheel

            Hopefully this is close enough to the topic - I recently took my BC12D pretzel wheel/shaft out to see what it would take to replace the bakelite bushing. It looks like the dash was built around that part and it wouldn't be easily removed. Anybody have any experience with that?

            Thanks, Ron

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            • #7
              Re: Control Wheel

              It sits in between 2 pieces of channel behind the instrument panel. The channel peices are welded to the tube that crosses at the bottom of the instrument panel, and held in place by 2 long 6-32 or 8-32 screws top and bottom. Remove the top screw and it should slide out the top with out any problems. You might have to remove the glove box to get the screw out. Tom

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              • #8
                Re: Control Wheel

                Thanks Tom. Unfortunately my glove box is riveted in.

                Ron

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                • #9
                  Re: Control Wheel

                  Once you have the control columns removed from the panel, it is easy. Then, if you remove the four long machine screws out of the front of your panel, the two piece phenolic bushing that the control column rests on should slide upward out of the two pieces of channel that are welded to the tubes.
                  Richard Pearson
                  N43381
                  Fort Worth, Texas

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                  • #10
                    Re: Control Wheel

                    Removing the glove box makes it easier, but as long as the block retaining bolts were put in heads inward (the correct way) you can still remove the top one. If they are backwards, just cut a small hole in the inboard box side over the screw head and pull the machine screw through the inside of the box.
                    Hank

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                    • #11
                      Re: Control Wheel

                      I'm probably the only one on this forum to turn a 10 minute job (one bolt at the u-joint to pull the wheel and column together) into a 45 minute job (laboriously peck the wheel off the column first, then pull the column) and then decide it's not such a great idea to separate the wheel from the column anyway, for a couple good reasons, and now will probably take another 30 minutes or so to remate them so the holes line up and I can get the bolts back in! Too bad I'm not paid by the hour...

                      Mike V.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Control Wheel

                        Mike,

                        Don't feel too bad. I just spent FIVE hours removing a water pump from a Cadillac. It would have been easier to pull the engine.
                        Richard Pearson
                        N43381
                        Fort Worth, Texas

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Control Wheel

                          Mike,
                          You aren't the first. When I pulled my first set of controls I pulled the wheels first, then the panel, where it became obvious that it was easy to just pull the control tube from the universal. Live and learn. At least I only did it once (OK, twice, had to pull both wheels to get the panel out).
                          Make sure you replace the roll pins or taper pins so they are TIGHT when you put the wheels back on. Hard to fly the plane by holding the tube!
                          Hank

                          If you re-plate the control shaft they would have had to take the wheels off anyway. Just make sure they Hydrogen Embritlement relieve the shaft after plating! You have to put the shaft in an oven at 375ºF plus or minus 25º for 23 hours within 15 minutes after removal from the plating solution. You risk cracks in the drill holes without the relief (or if it starts late!)
                          DON'T let them talk you out of it!

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