I was checking out my feathers the other day, and they felt a little loose, so I thought I might look for new bushing. Does anyone know where to get them?
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Tail feather bushings
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Re: Tail feather bushings
Originally posted by drude View PostAlso, I put loctite on the pin heads to stop them from rotating in the hinge.
Larry"I'm from the FAA and we're not happy, until your not happy."
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Re: Tail feather bushings
Ace Hardware carries them, I also bought them in bulk at http://www.reliablebronze.com/catalog-sleeve.php
Here is the L-2 drawing for the bushing and I am certain it is the same for the other models.Ron Greene
TF#360
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Re: Tail feather bushings
I got mine at my local Ace Hardware store. You may try www.mcmaster.com or Bisco Industries if you can't find them locally.DJ Vegh
Owned N43122/Ser. No. 6781 from 2006-2016
www.azchoppercam.com
www.aerialsphere.com
Mesa, AZ
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Re: Tail feather bushings
Not too long ago I listed the complete dimensions of bushing and pin as measured from some I have from the factory in 84. I can't find the thread just now and I am in the process of moving so I don't have time to go to the hangar and measure them again.
You could look for the thread.
DC
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Re: Tail feather bushings
Originally posted by Ron Greene View PostLarry,
The pins if I remember correctly are available from Univar but they are very expensive.
Here is a drawing."I'm from the FAA and we're not happy, until your not happy."
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Re: Tail feather bushings
Here's my photo of the dimensions required to remove/install these oilite tailfeather bushings:
...also useful for the aileron bushings
Here's the knurled pin; I think it's one of those things that we as a group need to have a large batch made, if anyone knows where?:
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Re: Tail feather bushings
The knurling is to force the pin to rotate on the second hinge piece instead of the first. From an engineering point of view I never understood why they wanted the pin locked to one part or the other. As soon as the parts wear in or the smallest bit of corrosion starts it will lock to one or the other anyway (and no matter which it locks to it will be a pain to get out (why I really like your removal tool). On my 41 I couldn't get pins with knurls, but I LIKE that. I like to check the lubrication of the pins on a regular basis and when I do I grab the end of the cotter key and make sure the pin rotates in BOTH of the hinge pieces. If it's a little tight in one, it's time to pull the pin and see why. Other than the first disassembly after I bought the plane, I have never had any problem getting the pins out with just a screwdriver and tap with a piece of wood (a SMALL piece of wood). When I catch a little corrosion on a pin or in a hole, it's a LITTLE corrosion and cleans up quickly. Coat it with oil and slide it back in and safety it.
Works fine, lasts (not a long time) FOREVER. How many of us actually USE that lube chart?
Hank
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Re: Tail feather bushings
Its best to have the pin lock to the outer hinge tabs because the inner tab has a replaceble bushing and is therefore the "wear part" and the "lubed" part as well.
The bronze bushing to pin surface on the middle hinge tab will not rust together while sitting so the hinge will/should never seize or get stiff.
When the hinges get sloppy and need to be refurbished it will be easier since the wear part has been pre-determined and is replaceble.
On the aileron hinges the scenario is more pronounced since the outer hinge halve(s) is stamped from sheet and has small bearing surface to the pin.
Spreading the outer hinge slightly (perhaps adding a thin washer under cotter pin too) so that there is tension on the pin head and cotter pin locks the pin to the outer hinge pretty good. As I said earlier, I use Loctite under the head too.
Dave
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