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you really need to weigh the piston you are removing so the new one is close, within a couple grams, or change the one opposite of it as well. The weights can be off by a bunch and cause a vibration.
I have a "friend" who took his to a local speed shop (I mean a speed shop close to where he lives) that did machine work for NASCAR and built racing engines. They were able to take the pistons, pins, caps and rings and match them up as close as possible, then take a tiny shave off the skirt to get them precission balanced. Next he got all the rods balanced (same weight and center of gravity) by shaving a little of the balance pad on the rod (yes, there was one). He then spun the crank at over 20,000 RPM after balancing that. You have to keep all the parts in sets to preserve teh balance, and I don't know how much overkill it was, but you guys know I can get a little anal.
Hank
I mean, he gets as anal as I do. My friend I mean. With the homebuilt.
I have an O'hous scale that I used to do my small block pistons and rods for my Camaro, but then I wind it to 6500 pretty regular.
Never thought much about special balancing something designed in the 1930's that turns 2500 RPMS. To quote a famous philosopher, "You can put a candle on a cowpie, but that don't make it a birthday cake."
I suspect most of my vibration comes from my metal prop that throws every power pulse clunk right back at the rotating assembly. Maybe. Chuckle.
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