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Setting non-blind rivets

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  • #16
    Re: Setting non-blind rivets

    Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
    Is it a stamped rib or a built up one like the cubs have? If it is stamped, I would just use some AN470-3-3's spaces about 1/2-3/4" apart on the sides and some counter sunk rivets on the top and bottoms. Just go find a mechanic that is an old timer and he can do it in about 30 minutes. It would take me 45-an hour because I have not seen my tools in almost a year. Just think, if you are covering it and used good old fashioned pop rivets, the next time anyone saw it would be in around 30 years and I dont think that anyone would really give a crap then. There is not much stress on that rib, the rib stitching is the hardest strain or installing the martin wire....will do the most damage....unless you ground loop it
    "saw" is the operative word. Agree this is not a structural part, but I'd prefer solid rivets - Mike
    Mike Horowitz
    Falls Church, Va
    BC-12D, N5188M
    TF - 14954

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    • #17
      Re: Setting non-blind rivets

      Mike,

      A picture is worth a thousand words, an EAA free video is even better.

      Ron Greene
      TF#360

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      • #18
        Re: Setting non-blind rivets

        Originally posted by Ron Greene View Post
        Mike,

        A picture is worth a thousand words, an EAA free video is even better.

        http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilder...oId=1715728645
        Maybe a lot of folks are trying to get to the site; I'll try later as the player isn't loading - Mike
        Mike Horowitz
        Falls Church, Va
        BC-12D, N5188M
        TF - 14954

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        • #19
          Re: Setting non-blind rivets

          Originally posted by mhorowit View Post
          This is a skill I really want to learn. I know I can go to the nearest EAA chapter (I'm a member) and someone will do it for me, but Bill et al have suggested it can be done by hand without an expensive rivet set or hand squeezer so I want to give that a chance. - Mike
          For me, the most common reason rivets squash off to one side is that the rivet is not snug in hole in the parts. A 3/32 rivet in a 1/8 hole will be almost impossible to mash straight.

          If the rivet is falling off to one side, another possibility is you are not hitting it square. That's why I said make sure the guide tube is cut perfectly square.

          That being said, the best and most reliable way is with a hand squeezer or a bucking bar and gun. Before wasting any more time or effort, I have to suggest you go and get someone with a hand squeezer or a real rivet gun, and start learning that skill. BELIEVE ME, if I can learn it easily anyone can !
          Taylorcraft : Making Better Aviators for 75 Years... and Counting

          Bill Berle
          TF#693

          http://www.ezflaphandle.com
          http://www.grantstar.net
          N26451 (1940 BL(C)-65) 1988-90
          N47DN (Auster Autocrat) 1992-93
          N96121 (1946 BC-12D-85) 1998-99
          N29544 (1940 BL(C)-85) 2005-08

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          • #20
            Re: Setting non-blind rivets

            Got to agree with Bill on this one. Even I had no problem bucking pretty rivets with the right tools (and buggering up EVERY ONE with jury rigged junk). Get the right tools and even an engineer can do a nice job.
            Hank

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