I have a chart with tubing part numbers for a BC12-D fuselage spelled out on it. And it is easy of course to measure tubing outside diameters and lengths. But it is more difficult to determine the tubing wall thickness. Is there a reference of those part numbers that indicates the wall thickness? I thought I had something like that, but can't find it.
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
Hi Paul stop by and check the drawings.... why do you ask? you can check during restoration by drilling a hole and then use a rosette when done. OR just a pk screw will do like when you inject tube oil.Taylorcraft Foundation, Inc
Forrest A Barber 330-495-5447
TF#1
www.BarberAircraft.com
[email protected]
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
The reason I asked is I have a nutball idea in a foggy dark corner of my head. Before I get too old to do it, I have wanted to build an airplane, from scratch, that would satisfy most of my needs. I can't afford to own, maintain, keep up and hangar a long-distance traveling airplane, as well as an aerobatic airplane, and then satisfy my Taylorcraft longings all at the same time. That's three airplanes! So in my head, not wanting to engineer completely from the ground floor, I have been contemplating a reverse-engineered clip-wing sort-of-Taylorcraft that would do it all. It would have to be a bit wider and taller and longer in the cabin, in order to provide some entry ease and long-time sitting comfort for a guy my size, plus passenger and baggage. I need enough horsepower and streamlining to get maybe 150 mph cruise or close. Sturdy enough and responsive to comfortably work with intermediate-style acro. Homebuilt experimental so as to not have to deal with the Federals when modifying something. And still look mostly like a Taylorcraft! You had to ask... OK, I know it's crazy!
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
No problem Paul....All you need is a Model 20 t-craft cleaned up,re-designed,streamlined,all composite,chopped top,narrowed fuslage(narrowed model 20 not BC12),clipped wings,with 200hp,LOL. In truth...a good built Swick that is good and straight with the center stick and an O290 will get you close to all that.As for being easy to get in and out of and lots of room for two with baggage......think about the re-designed model 20,LOL.Sorry,I couldn't help myself.Kevin Mays
West Liberty,Ky
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
OR come buy my F-22 fuselage, bigger, wider, individual seats lots of neat stuff. OR use OUR fuselage drawings., OR use the Model l5 , same as 20 Fuselage We have here to copy one...... e-mail me direct for a proper discussion. I too want a clip ship with 180 HP , bigger, wider, etc. THAT is why I had the F-22 fusealge I was hoping the Factory would think about this ultimate Taylorcraft. OR come over sometime.Taylorcraft Foundation, Inc
Forrest A Barber 330-495-5447
TF#1
www.BarberAircraft.com
[email protected]
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
Originally posted by paulnuss View PostThe reason I asked is I have a nutball idea in a foggy dark corner of my head. Before I get too old to do it, I have wanted to build an airplane, from scratch, that would satisfy most of my needs. I can't afford to own, maintain, keep up and hangar a long-distance traveling airplane, as well as an aerobatic airplane, and then satisfy my Taylorcraft longings all at the same time. That's three airplanes! So in my head, not wanting to engineer completely from the ground floor, I have been contemplating a reverse-engineered clip-wing sort-of-Taylorcraft that would do it all. It would have to be a bit wider and taller and longer in the cabin, in order to provide some entry ease and long-time sitting comfort for a guy my size, plus passenger and baggage. I need enough horsepower and streamlining to get maybe 150 mph cruise or close. Sturdy enough and responsive to comfortably work with intermediate-style acro. Homebuilt experimental so as to not have to deal with the Federals when modifying something. And still look mostly like a Taylorcraft! You had to ask... OK, I know it's crazy!
That's not crazy at all, if you have a dream and DON'T pursue it THAT'S CRAZY!!! GO FOR IT GUY!!
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
I have often though the perfect project could be a 46 Taylorcraft HOMEBUILT with all the little corrections added in. Make a great starting point for an LSA kit and if the tooling was built for things like struts and gear and wing ribs and tail surfaces....... just like the certified planes there would be a great leg up of manufacture of certified replacement parts when a PMA was obtained. If the tooling was designed right you could make certified replacement parts on the same basic tooling as kit parts and spread the tooling cost WAY out. It would be really nice to be able to change the tooling hard points to add a couple of inches of width and a little headroom to the non-certified or you could build an exact copy of a certified plane all from parts made in a factory environment. You could even buy a tack welded fuselage and finish it up yourself if that is what floats your boat. As much or little as you want to pay for.
Isn't it fun to dream?
Hank(;f
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
OK, Hank, this IS getting interesting.
What "little corrections" would you include in your homebuilt "T"?
Everyone (almost) seems to want a skylight and modern brakes.
A wider fuselage, more headroom...and?Bob Gustafson
NC43913
TF#565
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Re: Tubing sizes and wall thicknesses
Well, MY evolutionary dream "Taylorcraft" would have, as mentioned, a fuselage a few inches wider, and a couple inches taller. Through the cabin it would be about 4 inches longer, and the door opening would be shaped subtly differently to allow one to enter and egress with some facility (especially being taller). The seats would have some adjustment, and be independent. The fuel system would have most of the gas in the wings, with a header tank only ahead of the dashboard, down a bit low, a la Bellanca Decathlon, that would provide fuel in all attitudes for at least sevral minutes. That would allow instruments and radios as required to fit in the dashboard. A skylight would be useful for aerobatics; I find them of little use for "normal" flying, even a detriment because of sun heat and glare. The cabin would be much better sealed, to retain some cabin heat for colder weather operations; plenty of ventilation for warm weather. Control stick(s)? Maybe... Hydraulic toe brakes definitely. Wings clipped to 30 ft more or less, with longer-span balanced ailerons. Contours and appearance should be so close to the BC12-D that at first glance one might not notice, except that "something" is different. No odd-angle cowlings and boot cowls etc. like the F-21 suffered. Windscreen subtly more angled for aerodynamics and engine accomodation. From the sides, top and bottom preserve Mr. C.G. Taylors beautiful tear-drop shape, nature's natural aerodynamic shape. I still want tube and fabric construction fuselage & tail feathers for strength, simplicity, and rigidity; wood-spar wings with perhaps built-up wood ribs and a structural "D" section plywood leading edge and front spar section for added torsional rigidity, like the hopped-up Pitts wings. I like and know how to do this type of construction. And I want it to look Taylorcrafty when all is done! Some of my many ideas...
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