Protecting metal for a month??

[mhorowit]

Let's say you sandblast a surface that you won't be 2 part epoxying for about a month.
I know one can coat with ZincChromate and then when it's convenient, apply 2 part over the ZC.
Wondering if there is a less expensive way to protect the metal for about a month? - MIke

[Sloanlow]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

There is an arosol spray that is parafin based. You will have to wipe down the surface before applying 2 part. Acitone and a rag should remove all or most then a good washdown with a degreaser should put you in good shape for two part application. I dont know the name of the spray but it should not be hard to find with a little search on the net.

Jim A.

[VictorBravo]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

ACF 50 and/or LPS has three or four different products, one with a waxy or greasy feel to it for max protection. That should protect a surface for a while, however be aware of how much money for Acetone or MEK you will spend to remove it. If there's any residue you don't get off, you will have a paint failure later.

[rdwater]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

A prime of Zinc Oxide (the "environmentally friendly" alternative to Zinc Chromate) isn't too expensive for a spray can and you can epoxy over it. Bob

[3Dreaming]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

I would try to blast and prime at the same time if I could. If you are doing repairs or something like that, then I would just reblast right before the primer. It doesn't take long to go over it quickly after everything has already been removed. Tom

[N96337]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

I totally agree with Tom... do the repairs and blast it again if you have to. I have kept a fuselage in my paint room with heated floors for over a month and not had it rust... if it's dry and warm all the time, it's gonna be ok. Taking off the other stuff you spray on it will be LOTS of work, and ACF50 does such a great job, I'd hate to try to get it off bare blasted metal. If you rattle can something on, and don't take it off before you epoxy prime it, the epoxy primer only has that to cling to, so it's not going to hold as well as if it's into fresh blasted steel.
John H.

[Sloanlow]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

I was so interested in providing the product name, I forgot that I am currently doing the same thing. What I am doing is removing the old two part and other buildups down to the original zinc chromate. If i clean past the chromate to the bare metal I prime to protect. I'm mostly finished now and almost ready to shoot two part. I figure " if the cromate stuck for sixty years and does not come off then its good for another 60 years." I avoid bare metal when possible. I find that the zinc chromate that was applied properly is mucho difficult to remove. That, that was applied over oil and black paint is easily removed....

Jim A.

[mhorowit]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

What I am doing is removing the old two part and other buildups down to the original zinc chromate.
Jim A.

Jime - Why remove the two-part? I thought that stuff was like superman - Mike

[flybikefarm]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

does anyone know if you can use a paint glove for the two part paint? It would make my life simpler, garage attached to house don't like over spray. George

[Ray36048]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

I have used a small (1/2") hobby paint brush for small parts and things like fuse frame tubing. It works well, very easy clean up. This will work well for any part that does not have a final finish that would show brush marks.

[jgerard]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

Blast it, prime it with variprime(self etching zinc rich primer from Dupont). Then to make the needed repairs use a torch to burn off the paint in the area requiring repair. Weld away, and repaint with varipirme. Then after all repairs have been made use your favorite primer/sealer and then a top coat of polyurethane. Hard as nails finish that is totally sealed and has a zinc rich undercoating that has etched itself into the surface of the steel and you will not have any "external" corrosion problems ever. Bare metal that you are expecting paint to stick to should never have anything BUT paint applied to it. If you wanted to protect a piston for your engine that is a whole nother story.

Jason
N43643

[Sloanlow]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

Mine was poorly applied so I'm removing a lot of it.

[Sloanlow]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

Jason

you are right about that, but you wll notice most steel has cheap black paint and some oil preservative on it, a lot of times the factory just applied chromate over it. if you are cleaning your metal (even if it has been painted before) you will find substances that will inhibit paint adheason from 60 years ago. It is necessary to clean the surface for superior adheason. I like a good soap and water mix, rinse and blow dry with compressed air then acitone wipe down. i live in super dry country so I can get away with that. many times the surface is completely dry before i can get back with my compressed air. Acitone is better for you guys that live in humid country where water is bad news for steel. In retrospect I suggested the steel preservative but i really advocate clean and prime sections until your finished with the whole thing. I dont think that self etching primer is going to diminish the bonding of the two part system.

Jim

[jgerard]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

yeah, I meant after sand blasting steel it should be primed asap. I sure like the way a new 4130 fuse looks while under construction. Some of the funny car guys are bluing their chassis just like you would a gun barrel instead of painting them.

Jason
N43643

[Ragwing nut]

Re: Protecting metal for a month??

Blast it, prime it with variprime(self etching zinc rich primer from Dupont). Then to make the needed repairs use a torch to burn off the paint in the area requiring repair. Weld away, and repaint with varipirme. Then after all repairs have been made use your favorite primer/sealer and then a top coat of polyurethane. Hard as nails finish that is totally sealed and has a zinc rich undercoating that has etched itself into the surface of the steel and you will not have any "external" corrosion problems ever. Bare metal that you are expecting paint to stick to should never have anything BUT paint applied to it. If you wanted to protect a piston for your engine that is a whole nother story.

Jason
N43643

I do the same thing. Works great. Easy to scuff with Scotch Brite right before applying epoxy or sealer.

Mike