Engine Timing Mark

[8708]

Hi folks,
We are having no luck getting my newly overhauled engine started.
Using Slick Mags.
Is the timing mark on the seam at the top of the crankcase or the bottom?
Both mags are RH. Is that correct?
Thanks for any insight.
All the best !
Jay

[3Dreaming]

Bottom

[Woody]

You must trip the impulses ay approximately TDC then back up past the timing marks and rotate forward. . If you back up too far the impulses will reload.

[mike lutz]

With engine on number one cyl. on compression stroke, look up from under side at prop flange and line up selected timing degree mark on the crank case split. On the back of your Slick mag, with harness removed, you will see two holes . One will have a R, the other a L. The mag rotates right as viewing from the gear. There will be a rotating direction noted on the I.D. plate on the mag.There at the hole that has the R, you should be able to rotate the mag backwards, (left looking at the gear), and holding a timing pin from Slick, or a 3/32 I believe, allen wrench shank, when it comes up to Number one firing position the pin will drop into the hole in the distributor gear. Then install mag on engine, install clamps loosely and put your mag synchronizer on, and rotate till light goes out, then snug the clamps. Very simple once you get the hang of it. Hope this answers your question. What Woody said above is correct and the way I usually do it. However if your not all that familiar with these things maybe what I explained might help you. If still having problems put another post on here and will try to help.

[Woody]

What Mike said is correct, just make sure you remove the timing pin before rotating engine. You will break the distributor block if you move crankshaft with pin installed. Also make sure switch is set to both and ALL top plugs are removed.you don't want it to fire while timing.

[3Dreaming]

What Mike said is correct, just make sure you remove the timing pin before rotating engine. You will break the distributor block if you move crankshaft with pin installed. Also make sure switch is set to both and ALL top plugs are removed.you don't want it to fire while timing.

Or the mag. Also be careful rotating the mag to imsert the pin. It is possible to damage the rotor.

[8708]

Thanks to all for the detailed responses. We will give it another try tomorrow or Sunday.
Jay

[Guest]

With engine on number one cyl. on compression stroke, look up from under side at prop flange and line up selected timing degree mark on the crank case split. On the back of your Slick mag, with harness removed, you will see two holes . One will have a R, the other a L. The mag rotates right as viewing from the gear. There will be a rotating direction noted on the I.D. plate on the mag.There at the hole that has the R, you should be able to rotate the mag backwards, (left looking at the gear), and holding a timing pin from Slick, or a 3/32 I believe, allen wrench shank, when it comes up to Number one firing position the pin will drop into the hole in the distributor gear. Then install mag on engine, install clamps loosely and put your mag synchronizer on, and rotate till light goes out, then snug the clamps. Very simple once you get the hang of it. Hope this answers your question. What Woody said above is correct and the way I usually do it. However if your not all that familiar with these things maybe what I explained might help you. If still having problems put another post on here and will try to help.

Is the L and R peculiar to Slicks? I don't recall that for Bendix. What is different between the L and R mag? One has impulse? Haven't been near a Slick since the 60's and curious. Thanks, Dave.

[mike lutz]

The A-65 drives the mags from a different gear (crankshaft). ( right hand rotation) The C-75, 85, 0-200 drive off the cam gear which rotates other direction.(left hand rotation) If you would put a dash -8 case on the other engines, then you would be back to right rotation. Also the impulse will only catch the trip pin behind the gear in only one direction. Depending on the mag rotation direction.

[Guest]

Thanks Mike, That makes sense. Initially I was thinking that you meant LH and RH on the same engine and it made me curious about that. I get it now, thanks. Dave R.

[Scott]

Recomend you beg borrow or buy a time rite as you'll be lucky to get a good result just by trying to eyeball the timing Mark's on the crank.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KTIKOJgDD0U/VF2jmQ-BrbI/AAAAAAAABEA/5BZr4lSA9kQ/s1600/DSCN2492.JPG

[3Dreaming]

Recomend you beg borrow or buy a time rite as you'll be lucky to get a good result just by trying to eyeball the timing Mark's on the crank.
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KTIKOJgDD...0/DSCN2492.JPG

I have a cheap laser level that I use. It has a magnetic base, and I stick it to a steel bucket, and position so the line hits the bottom and front split in the case. It will still carry to the crank flange.

[otrcman]

Having been in your shoes -- trying to start a newly overhauled recalcitrant engine -- I really remember the help I got from one of my long gone friends. So maybe what he did on my engine will help you like it helped me.

At this point what you really want to do is see if your ignition is "in the ball park". Heck, it can be quite a ways off and will at least run poorly.


1. Remove all four top plugs for safety.

2. Be certain that both mags are OFF.

3. Identify cylinder #1 and put your finger over the open spark plug hole.

4. Slowly turn the prop in the running direction until you begin to feel air pressure at the spark plug hole.

5. Continue to turn the prop slowly, feeling the cylinder pressure building up. At some point you will hear a loud "CLACK" as one or both impulse couplings fire at top dead center.

6. If both mags have impulse couplings, they will fire simultaneously or nearly so. Usually you will will hear a second CLACK with slightly more rotation of the prop. That's OK, since it's rare to have both mags fire at exactly the same time.

7. Continue turning the prop. After the first pair of CLACK's you should not hear another impulse for a full two turns in the running direction. If another CLACK is heard before two full turns, then you have one mag drastically out of time.

8. If you are unsure of which mag is firing and which is not, you can put your fingers on the outside of the mag while a second person turns the prop. You should be able to feel the action of the impulse with your fingers.


If you hear both mags CLACK somewhere near TDC, you can be comfortable that the mags are close enough to run. You'll still need to assure that all the wires are hooked up correctly, and that the mag switch is wired correctly, but that's another story.

Dick

[Scott]

4 cylinder 4 stroke non-geared engine, all cylinders fire in two revolutions of the crank/prop. So each revolution the impulse coupling(s) will release twice. This should happen only a few degrees before top dead centre. BUT the sound will not tell you which cylinder is getting the ignition pulse so you're still in the dark.

Best just to start from scratch, follow the procedure with the timing pin and install the mag in the right position with cylinder 1 on the compression stroke tdc.

Also note that the firing order of the mag and the engine are different. The wire from mag position 1 goes to cylinder number one, but mag wire 2 goes to cylinder 3, mag position 3 goes to cyl4 and 4 goes to cylinder 2 for the firing order of 1342 (cast into the crank case). Wouldn't be the first time this mistake was made.

[mike lutz]

Also remember the mag rotor rotates opposite the mag gear.