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  • Thank You's, and question...s

    I have began working on a 1940 Model B, BL 65 this past May, 2018. I want to thank all that have given inputs and help on numerous items so far. Transporting it home, Getting the empennage off, storage of engine, and others. Thanks to all of you, I'm not going to remember all, but thanks to Hank Jarrett, Mike Lutz, Mark Townsley, Ryan Newell, the list is very long. You make a person feel welcome and its very appreciated. I have a couple of site posting comments and one technical question this morning. As far as the posting/blogging I've struggled through learning how to post a picture, thanks to Mr Lees for you post on that, kicked around here a few minutes this morning trying to find out how to post a new thread and am wondering about the blogging aspect. I really appreciate Scott's "CF-CLR. I'm interested in seeing and following others projects and wonder whether people are encouraged to blog/vlog theirs and how to find them?

    On removing the empennage I found a thread on I think 'stubborn horizontal stabilizer,' I made a checklist of all the contributions and checked off the ones I had already done and worked from least destructive potential up through the most potentially after that. What I had thought was rust initially, I now believe was fabric dope that had wicked itself between the tubes when the Horizontal stabilizers were covered while on the airplane. I had "wintergreen oil" on order which was next on my list and arrived the day after they came loose. My wife really enjoyed making me grovel over that. My conclusion, ...begin with something that will loosen the dope (if you suspect the horizontal stabilizer was covered while attached to aircraft), then use the wintergreen oil if dope loosening hasn't accomplished the goal. Then go through the compiled checklist from the thread of ideas, all were helpful and got the Horizontal stabilizers off.

    Technical Question: My project was placed in a barn after a tie down encounter with a nasty thunderstorm 33+ years ago. No particular attention was given to long term preparation for storage from the conversations I had with the man I bought it from. I have been cleaning and preparing it for "project storage," and have freed up cables to carb and cabin heat, and throttle. However the fuel shut off control is "Locked up," tight as can be. I've sprayed it several times with penetrating oil. Question is two fold; does the arm swing up or down? and more importantly should I just quit and wait until tank can be removed and the valve looked at as far as whether it can be rebuilt? I think the latter is a smarter and safer solution. I remember the discussion I had with the A&P and IA about not forcing the valve when recovering a 1946 I had while recovering and bringing it back up to speed.

    The fuel tank is dry with a varnish circle of about 8" around fuel opening to valve. Not real big. That's it for now, thanks again to all of you mentioned and many not mentioned. Clark
    Last edited by Clark; 06-29-2018, 07:00. Reason: typos
    Clark Freese
    1940 BL 65, Project

  • #2
    Re: Thank You's, and question...s

    Welcome Clark, to the forum and challenges of taylorcraft restoration!

    The fuel shutoff valve will probably need some heat to get it apart. I wouldn't try to turn it as damage to the internal surfaces is likely, making it difficult if not impossible to successfully rebuild. Best to tackle this with it on the bench and when you're certain there's no trace of fuel.

    begin by removing the arm, then the big nut. May be able to use a heat gun. If you use a torch remember it's only brass. There is a post about lapping the taper using polishing compound. You'll need an MS29513-012 o ring if memory serves, but you'll need to reuse all the other parts so be kind! You'll also want some EZ Turn fuel resistant grease. (Use this stuff during assembly of everything an it will all come apart easily the next time��
    Last edited by Scott; 06-29-2018, 11:16.
    Scott
    CF-CLR Blog: http://c-fclr.blogspot.ca/

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    • #3
      Re: Thank You's, and question...s

      Just buy a new one....contact me for details...
      N29787
      '41 BC12-65

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      • #4
        Re: Thank You's, and question...s

        Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
        Just buy a new one....contact me for details...
        And I'll say Dr. Tim's valves are excellent, thank you so much, gary

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        • #5
          Re: Thank You's, and question...s

          I am not to the point of repairing or replacing, yet. I'm still cleaning and dismantling for inspection before beginning repairs and restoration. It's nice to have a valve available. In the late 80's when we did my 46 BC 12 D there were none or none available and we were looking and waiting on a valve approval for one out of the U.K. But the A&P was able to get it apart and a new seal installed. I'm glad o know a new one can be obtained and will add to safety. I'm filling the file cabinet right now with information.
          Clark Freese
          1940 BL 65, Project

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          • #6
            Re: Thank You's, and question...s

            Well I went through what you did and now I have a new valve that will never leak in my lifetime. Do a search when you have questions on your project, there is a lot of stuff already on the forum that you can find if you just look. If you dont find an answer or need an explanation on something that is on here, you will find more than enough people in the tribe to chime in with an answer. Tim
            N29787
            '41 BC12-65

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            • #7
              Re: Thank You's, and question...s

              That's what I want, no leaks. I am finding a lot of very good information and will be using search function regularly I think.
              Clark Freese
              1940 BL 65, Project

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