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  • #16
    Re: Main Fuel Tank

    Originally posted by Hank Jarrett View Post
    I used a condom and blew into the tank through the carb fuel line. Hank
    Its a good thing you covered her up with a sheet. You wouldn't want to embarrass the old gal.
    Terry Bowden, formerly TF # 351
    CERTIFIED AERONAUTICAL PRODUCTS, LLC
    Consultant D.E.R. Powerplant inst'l & Engines
    Vintage D.E.R. Structures, Electrical, & Mechanical Systems
    BC12D, s/n 7898, N95598
    weblog: Barnstmr's Random Aeronautics
    [email protected]

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    • #17
      Re: Main Fuel Tank

      I have a brand new aluminum tank still in the box from Wag Aero, I purchased two years ago. I ended up getting mine cleaned up and so I did not use it. If anyone out there wants it, I will take whatever WA is selling them for... and... I will cover the shipping.
      Terry Bowden, formerly TF # 351
      CERTIFIED AERONAUTICAL PRODUCTS, LLC
      Consultant D.E.R. Powerplant inst'l & Engines
      Vintage D.E.R. Structures, Electrical, & Mechanical Systems
      BC12D, s/n 7898, N95598
      weblog: Barnstmr's Random Aeronautics
      [email protected]

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Main Fuel Tank

        Take it to a radiator shop to get repaired, been there done that. If its tern plate, you solder it with lead solder, if it aluminum, they can weld it.
        N29787
        '41 BC12-65

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        • #19
          Re: Main Fuel Tank

          Question for folks with new Wag Aero tanks: Have they done anything to strengthen the area on the bottom just in front of the valve fitting/outlet?
          DC

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          • #20
            Re: Main Fuel Tank

            Little warning. It LOOKS like a simple job, but WE can not get all the fuel fumes out of the tank (you may THINK you can, but you won't). Radiator shops can steam clean it and fill it with inert gas to weld or solder. We SHOULD NOT try to weld or solder fuel tanks ourselves without the proper equipment! It doesn't cost that much at a radiator shop, and you guys know I will try to fix almost ANYTHING....but NOT a fuel tank!

            Hank

            The radiator shop can also put a small double at the fuel outlet to eliminate the cracking problem there if you ask them.

            Originally posted by astjp2 View Post
            Take it to a radiator shop to get repaired, been there done that. If its tern plate, you solder it with lead solder, if it aluminum, they can weld it.

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            • #21
              Re: Main Fuel Tank

              You just need to get it below the LFL and then you are good to go....Use dry ice...the CO2 will displace the O2 and no boom boom....but I still take it to the radiator shop, they do these types of repairs all the time. My local guy put a bead around the bung that wont flex now. Just told him it was for an antique tractor. Tern Plate was used in tractors so good to go.
              N29787
              '41 BC12-65

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              • #22
                Re: Main Fuel Tank

                Tim's got it...during restoration had to complete an STC-required forward outlet on my PA-11 right tank someone "forgot" to complete (11 local annuals later, but it takes some time to catch especially if you never review installed STC's as an I/A)...took it to a quality experienced radiator shop...fixed with no problems and everybody happy.

                Gary
                N36007 1941 BF12-65 STC'd as BC12D-4-85

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                • #23
                  Re: Main Fuel Tank

                  The earlier question about whether your original tank was aluminum or ternplate was a good one, and not sure I caught the answer to that one. Our 45 model has a aluminum tank - goes in and out very easy. If you try welding on your aluminum tank, be warned that it looks like at least some of the fitting bosses and aluminum brazed in - not welded - at least on ours it's that way - and that was fairly common for war time production. Personally - I prefer the aluminum over the ternplate or later after market options, but that it just my preference.

                  Someone else earlier made a comment about adding rubber hoses between the tank and tubing. I assme he was referring to anti-chafe protection between the tank and the airframe tubing, and not the rubber tubing that goes between the tie-rods and the tank internal tubes. If so, in 45 the factory used thick felt for anti-chafe - lengths of it was stitched to 2" pinked surface tape - and then the tape was glued to the airframe tubing to hold the felt in place. This was used all around the tank, and between the firewall sheet metal and the airframe tubing behing the firewall as well. Just wanted to pass that along. Can share some photos of what it looked like if anyone is interested.
                  Randy

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                  • #24
                    Re: Main Fuel Tank

                    Post them in the reference section please
                    N29787
                    '41 BC12-65

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