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Which is why I asked in #68, 70, and 78 above how do we determine the source of the part given some offered by others are apparently available? Are Continental hubs marked and traceable?
Not arguing here and maybe there's a simple answer.
Gary
I have never seen a fake hub. Pretty certain the originals are not marked, but have not looked at one in awhile. I would call Doug on paperwork but I am assuming his description for with or without paperwork only means no paperwork provided on homebuilt installations.
Hi Eddie and it's good to hear you and Fred worked out the problem. I drove by Friday on my motorcycle but could see you folks were busy with installing the prop so moved on. Loose that goofy DeWalt starter.
I've got a B&C starter (http://www.bandc.aero/continentalsta...mebuilt-1.aspx) and small 12A alternator (http://www.bandc.aero/alternator12am...tlessgear.aspx) on my plane. You guys go have a look and take some measurements to see if it'll fit your engine. I have the alternator paperwork if Fred needs a copy. There's some machining that needs to be done for the starter installation as explained on B&C's webpage. I have the paperwork for that as well. At the very least a starter and battery should be installed for floats. You could either charge it with your truck or small solar panel.
Gary
No real machining, you just have to cut off the pilot for the old pull type starter clutch. Alot easier if the rear case is removed.
Hi Eddie and it's good to hear you and Fred worked out the problem. I drove by Friday on my motorcycle but could see you folks were busy with installing the prop so moved on. Loose that goofy DeWalt starter.
I've got a B&C starter (http://www.bandc.aero/continentalsta...mebuilt-1.aspx) and small 12A alternator (http://www.bandc.aero/alternator12am...tlessgear.aspx) on my plane. You guys go have a look and take some measurements to see if it'll fit your engine. I have the alternator paperwork if Fred needs a copy. There's some machining that needs to be done for the starter installation as explained on B&C's webpage. I have the paperwork for that as well. At the very least a starter and battery should be installed for floats. You could either charge it with your truck or small solar panel.
So here is the latest on this learning experience. Got new adapter plate and had it magna flexed and checked by two mech and blessed etc. Seems like the outer flywheel gear (if that's what you call it) for the safe starter was warped, (brought it in to a local machine shop to determine this). So I was told I need a new one. Well I wanted to fly and didn't want to go though all this garbage again, I could not get ahold of stc holder by phone or email. So Armstrong starter it is! I see that's a really good way to understand how to start your plane. Took starter off, drill etc, 13 pounds, and finally went flying today. Man I love to fly that Taylorcraft
, I was a bit rusty and anxious but did touch and goes and it's great. Me and my LADY are back together!!!
My mech is bringing in the part(s) to FAA and local IA school.
So most of the suspicion is on that worm gear, which btw weighed 4.8 lbs right behind the prop.
I will try to post a picture of Parts(s)
Am looking into BC starter for my craft on short mount since I'm going float flying, it would be nice. Any thoughts on this??
They wont question an old hub, most from unknown sources would probably not get overhauled anyways. Don't overthink this Gary. just put it in the mail and let them decide if its not up to par. Tim
I'm not directly involved or overthinking anything Tim. I mentioned previously to do just what is suggested and get some assurance any part is airworthy. If they accept the hub and P/N then that's ok.
Edit: I might add I would not buy a hub without prior inspection and verification. Let the seller sweat the recertification process and charge accordingly.
I've been through this stuff before and it has cost me nothing but time and money getting it sorted out. Which is why I chose last year to take the C-85 on my Taylorcraft with 100 hrs on a Field Overhaul and have it gone through with an STC'd 0-200 Stroker kit from AES with a new crank, certified rods, and new cylinders. Now new 0-200 cylinders are getting scarce to source and out of production until 9/16. But at least for the time being I know what I'm sitting behind over remote Alaska.
They wont question an old hub, most from unknown sources would probably not get overhauled anyways. Don't overthink this Gary. just put it in the mail and let them decide if its not up to par. Tim
Which is why I asked in #68, 70, and 78 above how do we determine the source of the part given some offered by others are apparently available? Are Continental hubs marked and traceable?
Not arguing here and maybe there's a simple answer.
Well you would need to have it sent to a shop certified to inspect and repair it. the inspection is an NDI and a dimension check for any visible defects (burrs, countersink, threads, corrosion, etc), repair would be consist of what ever is allowed in their part 145 certificate but I would suspect it might consist of media blast or chemical cleaning, deburring and replating. Its all based on what continental said was allowed and what their repair station certificate allows. As and a&p, it might consist of "yep its good" that will be $300 plus an hour of labor to change it. the repair station certificate gets you either an work/repair order with a description of they did, or an 8130-3. Yellow/green tags you get at Walmart.....they mean nothing to the FAA but as a mechanic, I can type up something on one and make the owner feel good. Part of this is sarcasm but that is generally what would happen to a taylorcraft that was flying part 135 and needed 100% certified parts. Part 91 does not require as stringent of a paperwork trail. Tim
Tim,
Sarcasm, got it, but with the goal of putting Gary's mind at least somewhat at ease. Your "yep its good" would likely have followed a good cleaning, magnifier inspection, dye penetrant inspection, some measuring... and you would catch a split keyway, cracked flanges, knicks, gouges, rust pits, flange runout/flatness.
The likelihood of the kind of failure that occurred here in the near future would be quite small. Wouldn't you think so? These simple checks would have revealed this hub's problem a while ago. I guess I am saying that it doesn't take rocket science to do a good inspection of these things.
Maybe this hub did not get looked at very much since Gary mentioned corrosion (of course corrosion can happen quickly in the right conditions) and a crack 360 degrees around the flange wouldn't happen in a day, would it? I don't think so. But this makes Tom's point about annuals, they need to be looked at from the back, behind the nose bowl. Also makes me wonder how this prop tracked? Was it out of track a lot for a long time?
All I am trying to say is that your A&P inspection has some real good merit, more than just a feel good event, you would have seen this coming.
Sure you may not be able to tell who made the part by these methods.
Anyhow its an interesting event and fortunate that no one was hurt. I have beaten the subject to death so this is my last post. Thanks to all for the comments ithas been interesting.
Thank you Tim for the response. I expect this from you and as always it's an excellent explanation. We pilots as 'keepers of the records' depend upon this discussion more than many realize...fortunately you and others do help educate us.
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