Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

[Guest]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Is 35 degree overlap the old model?

Answered my own question, yes it is, I found the bulletin.

According to the bulletin exhaust back pressure can result in power loss and in[articular acceleartion.

Any thoughts about that?

Dave

p.s. the bleed and main jets in the carb. are different depending which cam you use

[N96337]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

I talked to Loren Lemen about that.... he pointed out that if you read the bulletin carefully, it says that's with mufflers....so his remedy was to run like a Luscombe exhaust or a Champ exhaust. I think Eric Minnis and I talked about it and came up with the same conclusion. There's a few of them around. Didn't DanoT run one in one of his planes?
John

[LostnSpace]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Yes, I checked it out carefully before i made the choice, I got SS Luscombe exhaust made up, they are beautiful, gary

[Guest]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Thanks John and Gary.

So with "straight" pipes and the 35 degree cam do you get a better engine than with the 24 degree cam?

Dave

[N96337]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

I've heard both, Dave..... Jerry Burr says that it'll make better torque in a certain rpm range. If you've got your prop set right for that band, it'll pull like mad. I would believe him....he's got lots of research to back it. Loren seemed to agree. I think it was DanoT that had one in one of his Tcrafts on floats and if I remember, he said pretty much the same??? I've always wondered too, as I've got one to build up, and want to come up with a stroker with that cam if that's what will pull the hardest. If I remember, there was a pretty good thread or two about it over on supercub.org.

John

[Guest]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

I am mostly curious.

I already bought replacement followers to match the cam and had it reground and tagged. Probably not going to change course now as it would be expensive.

Dave

[Guest]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Perhaps this thread has morphed into C90 discussion. I like that.

Gary, John have you guys settled on magnetos?

Mine came with S20 Bendix and 15 years ago when I started this I purchased all the parts and TCM fluids/pastes needed to overhaul the mags and comply with SB's and AD's on the couplings.

Did not buy new couplings just parts to update.

I completed one mag about 12 years ago and its ready install the drive.

Will probably review what I did just to be sure nothing got touched over 12 years.

But I am wondering now do I want to stay that course or go get new mags, Slick?

What are you doing for mags?

Dave

[3Dreaming]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

In my opinion if you have good Bendix mags that have all the AD's complied with that would be my first choice. For the most part the options for replacement parts available for the Bendix mags is better and less expensive. That being said for a while if you had Bendix mags there were some parts you couldn't get making compliance with the AD's and overhaul almost impossible. When this was the case Slick was the way to go. It is my understanding that TCM Bendix are now selling new mags again at a competitive price compared to Slick

[LostnSpace]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Gary, John have you guys settled on magnetos?

When I got this C-90 it had Bendix mags on it, I sent them to Arn-Air he called me a couple days later and told me he had not seen such worn out mags ever, I believed him cause, even though I bought the engine as a 400 hour since major, the crank was cracked, the cam worn out, so the mags were no surprise, I saved money for a long time an got two Continental factory rebuilds with the short case, they are pretty, already a SB on them to check for a loose drive, seems like someone goofed on a couple of mags, so they put out the SB. I work at a repair station in Atlanta, GA. so I see lots of mags and mag issues, for the money i'd go with the Bendix, it seems there can be issues with either Bendix or Slick, lots of Slicks go the 500 til inspection just fine and same with Bendix, then some Slicks have problems just like Bendix, so I don't want to start a mag war here, gary I've used Bendix here interchangable with Continental Motors

[N96337]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Eisemans!!! I've worked on enough Bendix and replaced enough Slicks, that I'm going to stick with my Eisemans and be able to idle at 400!! Parts are a bit tougher to come by, but you don't need to as often.
John

[Guest]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

My A65 has those old "lunch box" mags sf4? and it will idle at 300-350, no impulse couplings. Metal prop too, that helps I bet. heavy "flywheel".

[N96337]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Yep! The new mags wont do that for you.

[Robert Lees]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Totally agree! I love my Eisemanns and they're easy to keep running with minimum maintenance. I overhaul quite a few here in the UK, and I've even made the bearing pullers to replace the magneto bearings.
Rob

Eisemans!!! I've worked on enough Bendix and replaced enough Slicks, that I'm going to stick with my Eisemans and be able to idle at 400!! Parts are a bit tougher to come by, but you don't need to as often.
John

[PA1195]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

Some C-90 cam info from Harry Fenton: http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fe...ft_Replacement

Gary

[Mark Julicher]

Re: Engine case question for you engine rebuilding mechanics

I guess I am somewhat tardy with this reply, but I get silk thread by begging expired suture thread from a veterinarian. It is also acceptable to use 100 percent cotton thread which is available online or at some sewing stores.