Interest? Throttle knobs; wing tank & 131mph placards

[bashibazouk]

I messed with "painting" the letters with a red magic marker. Not pretty, but that part will take a steady hand.

Two different types of sheet. The bronze is 30 ga., the bright brass is 36 ga.
The brighter stuff takes detail better but will be more fragile and prone to denting unless the back side of the embossing is filled with solder or glue or something like that.



Two different types of sheet. The bronze is 30 ga., the bright brass is 36 ga.



I have the capability to make embossed placards from just about any artwork you can supply. The speed limit placard was copied from the L-2 print.

Josh Brehm
Winterville, NC TF#910!!
Ship #1705

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: Interest?

Those are FANTASTIC!!!! I haven't been able to work the embossed parts yet except to experiment (and most either were terribly labor intensive or failed miserably).
I will start pulling together the original embossed plates I have and the drawings to pass to you.
I would go for the higher detail versions. Lay them face down and apply epoxy to the back to fill and stiffen them, then bond the adhesive paper to the epoxy. When you are done, trim the edges, peal the backing paper off and stick it to the panel.
You can color it by using a silkscreen roller and ink, just like the originals.

Hank

Let's get together and I will pass you what I have. There are several other embossed logos in the Taylorcraft. hjarrett 2 at cox dot net.
Leave out the spaces and use a period for the dot....you might have figured that out, ;-)

[Larry Lyons]

Re: Interest?

Interested? Is the Pope Mobile Catholic?
L

[bashibazouk]

Re: Interest?



Okay, so the technical name for the roller thingy is a "brayer." I tried some screen printing ink and it's water based and won't stick to the brass at all. I tried a couple different paints including oil based enamel and acrylic (not latex, but artsy-type acrylic) and didn't get great results. The oil based enamel was about the best, but it's really tough to get enough on there to make the letters stand out without globbing big wads in between.

Thoughts?

(The red knobs are just there for scale.)

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: Interest?

The ink we used on the A-6, F-14 and F-16 was not water based. It required a solvent to remove, even when still wet.
The silk screen place I used to use has gone under. I need to find some new experts.
Hank

Edit:
Did you try painting the Brass prior to rolling the ink on? The old ones I have seem to have some kind of sprayed on coating over the brass. Some are actually painted prior to coloring the letters.

[Robert Lees]

Re: Interest?

(The red knobs are just there for scale.)

Got some knobs in black?

[M Towsley]

Re: Interest?

Beautiful work. I would love to get the correct plaques and a red throttle knob from you. Please let me know.

[bashibazouk]

Re: Interest?

Got some knobs in black?

I can make them in any colour you like, Sir.

[Robert Lees]

Re: Interest?

Can you quote me for four, in black, with the wording in white as per your red ones Josh? Delivery to as-yet-to-be-determined State in the contiguous US. Is the female brass thread form the usual throttle form?

PM or email is OK too.

Rob

[Dick Huish]

Re: Interest?

Josh, I have an original 'do not exceed 140 mph' from an L-2. It does not appear to have been painted. If you can duplicate them then I will send it to you. I have an original 'front seat' also if I can find it. Dick

[Ray]

Re: Interest?

I would like one of the tank plaques and a new red throttle knob. How Much?

[M Towsley]

Re: Interest?

I think the ink isn't sticking because, obviously, the surface is too slick. If you could slightly roughen the surface the ink/paint would adhere better. Just a thought...

[Larry Lyons]

Re: Interest?

I think the ink isn't sticking because, obviously, the surface is too slick. If you could slightly roughen the surface the ink/paint would adhere better. Just a thought...

Exactly what I was thinking. But start out with something like 600 or 800 grit on a hard rubber back board and just touch it the first time. I have been experimenting on my A-7 mag switch rebuild but have the opposite problem as the letters are a depression stamped in. I settled on a white grease pencil used after cleaning the lettering with dental tools, set with a clear coat as a last coat. But have been fighting a silicon grease problem on the face. ( be very wary of using silicon grease! ) After about 20 coats on and taken off, I am down to the last time, I hope. Last week the last wet coat lifted some of the old coat. But I am on the down hill to finish by spring.
Larry

[Ron Coleman]

Re: Interest?

Josh
The ink you want is "letter Press" ink. Available at printer supply houses. Expensive, but a can will make a fine printed line almost to the moon. Maybe find it on the net. I'll look to see if I have any left from my print shop supplies. The brayer you need should be a medium firm. If you use the brayers used for kids wood print kits, it will be too hard and will only hit the high parts of the relief. A medium firm should be soft to roll over the rounded edges of the relief without getting down into the gullets. A soft brayer wlll just fill the embossing with ink. Letter press ilnk will stick to just about everything. If you get some oil on the surface of the embossing clean it with a little type cleaner.

Have fun
RonC

[bashibazouk]

Re: Interest?

Josh
The ink you want is "letter Press" ink. Available at printer supply houses. Expensive, but a can will make a fine printed line almost to the moon. Maybe find it on the net. I'll look to see if I have any left from my print shop supplies. The brayer you need should be a medium firm. If you use the brayers used for kids wood print kits, it will be too hard and will only hit the high parts of the relief. A medium firm should be soft to roll over the rounded edges of the relief without getting down into the gullets. A soft brayer wlll just fill the embossing with ink. Letter press ilnk will stick to just about everything. If you get some oil on the surface of the embossing clean it with a little type cleaner.

Have fun
RonC

Hi Ron,

I should have thought of that from my high school print shop days! Mr. Arnst would have issued a dope slap for sure for my forgetfulness! Thanks for the brayer advice, too. Do you think rubber-based or oil-based ink would be better?

Josh