1941 Deluxe Factory Color schems

[TC747paul]

Happy Easter Weekend All
Is there a record somewhere that might tell me what N29747's original color scheme from the factory? it is yellow over metalic blue and i would like to return it to original.
thanks

[Hank Jarrett]

The color LAYOUT was pretty standard with the light color on top and dark on the bottom divided from back of the door forward by the metal trim strips. From the door handle aft there were a few different ways it was done. One was straight aft and across the rudder about midway on the fin post between the stab and fuselage bottom. A second way had teh tape curve down under the stab ending at the bottom of the fin post and a third was just like the straight back with a curve down on the rudder. From the door handle back was often a black trim stripe an inch wide between the colors, unless the painted didn't want to. Back in the 70s a guy who said he painted them at the factory said it was done each way based on how the masking tape was pulled. Only requirement was that both sides were the same. The wings were done in the lighter color with either a darker leading edge straight to the tip, a curved tip back to the wing tip light, a curved tip all the way back to the aileron or not wing color trim at all, again depending on how the paint masker felt that day. Again, only REQUIREMENT was that both wings had to be the same. As for colors, I think Forrest had a list of which colors were used on which planes, but have no idea if he still has it. I have a list of the color combination that were available but need to look it up if you need it.

Hank

[NC36061]

The Deluxe had five "duotone" finish options.
-red over black / gold stripe
-cream over red / black stripe
-cream over blue / black stripe
-yellow over blue / black stripe
-yellow over black / white stripe

Yes, Forrest Barber claimed he had factory records, but I don't know of anyone else ever seeing it. I was able to deduce the original colors on 36061 by looking at all of the documentation, found an early 337 referencing yellow dope on a wing repair, and found traces of blue paint on the tubes and structures in the lower fuselage.

[3Dreaming]

Yellow over metallic blue may very well be original.

[Hank Jarrett]

Same here on mine Dave. I found small bits of paint on parts that were either Taylorcraft Ivory or Metallic Maroon (the names Taylorcraft used in 41). The colors were named by Taylorcraft at the time and despite what Randolph will tell you Taylorcraft Ivory IS NOT DIANA CREAM!!!! I have several unopened cans of Taylorcraft Ivory Dope I had mixed to match half a dozen samples from different places in the country of original fabric bits that were not exposed to the sun. ALL were the same. The Ivory seems to be a very stable color. That IS NOT true for the Metallic Maroon! First, before WW-II "Metallic" wasn't the same as now. It WAS NOT metal flake or what we call metallic now. It was a very high gloss Maroon and it aged down to an Ox Blood brown/red over time. I also had paint mixed to match samples and my planes Maroon is NOT correct for original (but a good match to some museum samples from the late 30's early 40's. After it was too late for my plane I found out that Taylorcraft used an AUTOMOTIVE color for the Maroon and it is in fact still available. In fact the seat trim color was supposed to match the darker outside color and I DID find auto material for the seats that is the right color. When I recover I will get the color mixed to match the car guys color (they are even more anal than we are about the right colors). The model is of my 45 in work to get the color to get the color layout right and is the WRONG Ivory (Diana Cream), the 41 is mine and has the correct Ivory and the way too brown Maroon. (In the photo the Ivory looks a bit more white than it actually is.)

If your plane turns out to have been the Ivory over Blue the original blue was used by Cessna for decades after Taylorcraft stopped using it and is still available. It is the DARK blue, not the lighter sky blue. Those were the colors that were originally used on my 45. Th blue on the model is actually Cessna touch up paint. Afraid I have no info on the yellow but I seem to remember a few guys on here did a lot of research on yellow and should know the correct shade.

Hank

Don't forget to let us all know what you find out and POST PHOTOS!! Yell if you want a bit of Ivory on a note card and we may want to get Stewarts to mix up some of the right colors since Dope is getting kind of obsolete. Anybody need some sealed can Ivory Butyrate Dope?

[3Dreaming]

When I restored my BL I stripped off paint and was able to get to the bottom factory layer. It was a metallic blue, and it did have a very fine metal flake. Maybe just some aluminum past added IDK. The closest current day color to match it was Randolph Newport Blue. I sent a upper gear fairing with the layers of paint removed down to the factory layer to Stits to have an exact match blended. I had it mixed in Aerothane and flattened to look like dope. My wings were silver being that it was a trainer, and built as inexpensive as possible.

[TC747paul]

Thanks for the info guys
i will post pictures as we get going and share anything I find in the logs

[TC747paul]

Not best photo
i have collected the trim, yikes, compass, new struts, cowl trim is correct. Have a rough panel. Need to find instruments, wheel pants and mag switch and whatever else it’s missing.

[Hank Jarrett]

Paul, I have info on the panel I made. Can you post photos of what you have now?

Hank

[TC747paul]

[TC747paul]

Hank
i will be home Wednesday. I wi get some better pictures.
it is pretty butchered up
thanks

[Hank Jarrett]

Really it is NOT that bad! The panel itself is VERY repairable and with a bit of work the insert could be brought back too. Also you have a very hard to get VNE cast placard like I have been trying to replicate (getting close, but need to do some jewelers loop work yet Top is a stamped one, middle is an original and bottom is my replica.). The placard is cast metal with a black background and gold or brass raised markings. It is pretty easy to screw up because the detail is NOT that deep. The inclinometer on your panel is NOT original and I can't imagine it being very easy to use. You are going to get good at flush patching. ;-) My A-7 mag switch for the 45 is coming along nicely and is working smoothly. Next one will be for the 41 to fit in the panel insert opening. I really like not having to use the original A-7 since I have seen several fail. Putting a key in the lever and mounting a Grimes switch behind the panel makes it non-original, but more reliable and you can pull the key out and at least slow down anyone trying to start the engine. It is almost impossible to tell it is a replica. I can send you tracings of how the insert panel hole shapes are supposed to be from an original insert tracing.
No idea why some photos keep posting rotated.

[TC747paul]

Hank
I do have the cast 131mph plaque
I will post a picture
thanks.
paul

[Hank Jarrett]

They really do look a lot nicer than the later ones and I have been told they made them with 140 MPH for a while before switching to the stamped ones. ANY one have a cast one with 140 MPH?

Hank

I should let all know that I finally broke one of the cast levers for the mag switch. I must have put 10 years of abuse in it before it broke (which was because i dropped it on a stone floor by the way). I back drilled it and put a steel wire from the center through the lever and glued it back together. Let the torture test continue!! I think I have a way to drill the hole from the key slot out but am playing with casting the wire in too. If you look closely you can see the wire in the photo. Also have 11 small knobs made and am finding ways to make the shank straight. The master is straight but they seem to take a curve in the mold. Still work, but don't quite look right when you hold them. Once under the panel you can't see it, just bugs me.