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I concur: Watch that 3M adhesive; it is very powerful and I reckon will remove paint from struts and you'd have to cut it from fabric.
I've been following a fellow European chap who does extensive trips all across Europe in his Remos fitted with a GoPro. He uses 3M Dual Lock tape, a type of "hook-and-loop" fastener (not Velcro). 120 kts no problem.
One of his public photo albums is here. How he attaches it with the tape can be seen in the below two photos, and his full story of the 3M "hook-and-loop" details are here.
Ironically I had just a year before been to the Orkneys myself, and last year flew the Alps, so I was familiar with all his photos.
That hook and loop system is used in the marine industry for some canvas tops. At least I think that is what the pic shows. It is unbelievably strong. As a matter of fact after a few years the fabric will tear before the two pieces come apart. Your fingers will tire if you do more then one or two separations at a time.
L
"I'm from the FAA and we're not happy, until your not happy."
I'm familiar with this product, however, you can see from the pics he uses it on the metal of the wingtip. Won't work for me, though the adhesive is less aggressive than some. Looks almost like the view in your videos, Rob. Also looks like there would be vibration with the set-up, I'll have to look at the videos.
The problem about using it inside the cabin is that you pick up the prop rotations but not much you can do about that, However there is at least one camera on sale in the UK which is equally as small and gives at least one setting which illiminates the prop rotations.
There is what appears to be a simple solution for the odd shapes created by the prop when using cameras like the GOPRO. It involves placing a filter on the lens that causes the camera to adjust for a lower light situation. It would be equivalent to using a slower shutter speed on a still picture when you want the prop to be blurred to the point where it nearly disappears. Problem with video cameras like the GOPRO, is that you can't manually adjust the exposure so it has to be "Jury Rigged" by using filters. For the Contour camera, they make a filter used for this reason. It can be purchased for use on their standard camera and comes with a specialized camera they make for use in filming fast moving objects.
I'll post some really informative links I found recently on this subject while reviewing camera options for myself.
Blake Carlson
Crookston, MN
1941 BC12-65
N47665
Member #1009
Here's a site with a number of videos relative to propeller distortion, http://wn.com/rolling_shutter_prop
• Video 2 demonstrates the result of different levels of neutral density filters on prop distortion.
• Videos 4 & 5 have illustrations showing why the distortion happens
• Video 8 Check out the flexible prop! If you have a prop like this do you still have to overhaul the engine after a prop strike?
• Video 11 shows how a neutral density filter can make the prop nearly disappear when viewed from the cockpit.
Though I appreciate the info on the prop distortion the reason I am mounting it out on the strut is to eliminate that issue. That is why my original inquiry is about strut mounts.
I utilized a profile gauge to get the strut profile and will either get my friend to machine this out of nylon or delrin or buy one similar to this: http://www.ransclan.com/Articles/AeroVideo.htm
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