Stagerwing Knot

[jgerard]

I thought I read somewhere that the factory was going to rib stich the new wings, and that there would be an STC to allow the rest of us to do so on the stamped ribs.

I recently took a 3 day instrutional course on the AFS covering system. It's ceconite with water based glue and UV filler, followed by a water borne catalyzed paint. I have done both dope and stits before and find the AFS system much better. Easy to apply, Easy to repair. NO STINKY FUMES!

The best part is I learned the Stagerwing rib stich method and it's much faster than the old seine knot that most people continue to use.

Jason
N43643

[alwaysoar]

AFS "Blue River"

Jason, I'm glad to hear you say good things about AFS. My plane was recovered in '99 with the "Blue River" process, the predecessor to AFS. It is considered controversial, but mine has held up well. The glue "cecobond" is amazingly strong and impossible to get off as I found when I rebuilt my ailerons.

Ed@BTV VT
TF 527

[Robert Lees]

OK, I'll bite...

What is a Stagerwing (Staggerwing?) stitch?

Rob

[crispy critter]

Thanks Rob...I'll second that question.

[mulwyk]

The AFS System sounds interesting.
How does the cost compare with Poly Fiber?

[taylorcraftbc65]

compatability

And are the paints compatible with the Blue River Process stuff that my plane was covered with? Sabrina

[jgerard]

The AFS process is the revised Blue River system. Non flammable, No fumes, less weight. First you glue the Ceconite on with "second" glue, there is no wet adhesion so you give it a minute to tac-up and lay the fabric over it. Lightly pressing the fabric into the glue keeps it in place. Then you can iron the edges for a permeant bond. Shrink the fabric normally in 3 stages. Lay out your finishing tapes. Lightly brush on a bit of glue and lay the tape over it. Then brush glue over the tapes wiping away any excess glue. Now your fabric is on and shrunk, the finishing tapes are glued down. The next step is to take a foam brush and lightly apply two coats of "Ceco-fill" this fills the weave and provides UV protection. Then you can lightly dry sand this with 320 grit. If there are any loose tapes or edges just hit them with the iron. The glue is heat activated. Now you can spray on 4 more coats of "ceco-fill" Up to now every thing in water based and no thinning is required. Once you have the desired amount of fill in the weave you are ready to spray the paint. This is the only part of the process that requires attention to detail. Proper temp, and mixing ratios make for a better Finnish. The paint is a 2-part polyurethane that is water borne. No solvents used to thin, only water so it's non flammable, and does not stink. I can mail out a sample of finished ceconite if anyone likes.

The price for enough materials to Finnish a T-craft with a single color is about $2600. I think it's the least expensive process out there.

About the Staggerwing knot. Well that is what Beach used to rib-stich the staggerwing biplanes. it goes much faster than the modified seine knot. Hard to describe but here goes... Make a small hole right at the trailing edge and slide the needle under the fabric just under the surface and out the upper right side hole for the "first stitch" Go across the rib and down, out, over, and up coming out the same "first hole" this has wrapped the thread all the way around the rib. You need to leave about 2" of slack on top. Twist this slack clockwise creating a "loop" run the needle through the loop and pull tight, then lock that knot with a 1/2 hitch. Push that knot over and down through the "fist hole" to hide the knot, now run the needle back down that same hole slide it foreword just under the surface of the fabric and out the next upper right side hole for the next stitch. That's the Staggerwing knot. It really helps to prepunch the holes and use a slightly dull needle. You also want to slightly bend the first inch of the needle up. That helps find the starting holes when running the needle under the surface of the fabric between stitches.

Jason
N43643

[jgerard]

forgot to mention the differences between blue river and AFS

-The fabric is now regular old ceconite instead of some kinda pre-
sealed yellow fabric

-You no longer brush on a coating of thinned out cecobond to seal
the fabric before brushing the cecofill on.

-The paint does not flake off!!!

Jason
N43643

[mulwyk]

Lightweight, cheap, does not stink...the perfect date or the AFS system?
Is the AFS polyurethane poisonous when sprayed? Do I need a fresh air respirator to spray this stuff or will an ordinary spray paint respirator do the trick?
You've really got me interested in this system. I was just getting ready to order a load of Poly-Fiber materials, but I believe I'll wait until I can find out more about the AFS.
Sabrina's plane is covered in Blue River. How long has it been on there? Any problems?

Bob Gustafson

[taylorcraftbc65]

My Blue River cover job

Bob,
My plane was covered eight years ago, and it looks new. BUT, it was in a hanger for those eight years. During that time, it was only flown for eight hours, all in the first year. The guy who restored it (completely, engine and airframe both) died, so it went through several owners, and sat as a hanger queen. I got it in January of this year, fixed a problem with the brakes, got it annualed, and since June, have been going through it slowly getting it how I want it. Since June, I have put about 9 hours on it.
Once I get all the bugs worked out, I'll put about 4 or 5 hours a week on it. Sabrina

[jgerard]

http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/

this should answer all your questions on the AFS system.

Jason
N43643