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Fuel Tank Float Sealer

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  • #31
    Re: Fuel Tank Float Sealer

    Originally posted by M Towsley View Post
    Much better understood, thanks Tim. (I wondered what happened to the valve, I would have bought one but I truly don't have a problem with buying a good part). I like stock items that show, like the cap and gauge. The cap would be stock, the wire is wire but the problem you advise is the lousy cork or in this case the 'synthetic' cork. But, how do you prove the 'store-bought' cap, wire and cork is all correct wire length, etc., when that information isn't listed anywhere that I know of, and all the ones that came with the airplane have probably been messed with many times over the years? Or, is that part overlooked? I would think non-stock length indicator wire would be a big issue so how would you prove the Cub gauge is exactly like, or would work for a Taylorcraft? Thanks!
    Use a ruler to measure the tank depth, the wire should just bottom out before hitting the bottom of the tank. Its not a perfect science. Just good word smithing on your 337 if you did one. I can fly for 40 minutes when the wire hits bottom. I like it there, it gives me my required minimum fuel. Tim
    N29787
    '41 BC12-65

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    • #32
      Re: Fuel Tank Float Sealer

      When I had my plane level once and was making a fuel dip stick I was loading fuel one gallon at a time and marking the stick. Mine fell pretty close to what you advised.
      Cheers,
      Marty


      TF #596
      1946 BC-12D N95258
      Former owner of:
      1946 BC-12D/N95275
      1943 L-2B/N3113S

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      • #33
        Re: Fuel Tank Float Sealer

        According to an old machinery manual (1930-40's), shellac should only be used on floats when is was used in tanks containing pure gasoline. If the gas has anti-knock agents or cold weather additives, shellac may soften and slough off or become brittle and fall off in flakes or sheets. The recommended coating was a cellulose acetate compound. Some years ago I had the shellac coating come off of the float in the T-craft and kill the engine. I posted at that time about the new composite floats (some are junk) The good ones are great. I use them in my Indians.

        I have several fuel caps for the T-craft. I use the original once a year.
        By the way, the wire should not rest on the bottom of the tank when the fuel is low or you may pound a hole in the tank.

        The best way to avoid problems with anal types is to never land your airplane.

        So there too!!

        RonC

        Ps A common cellulose acetate compound is Amabroid Cement. We used it to seal engine compartments of ignition type model airplanes. We burned gasoline in those engines. That was, y'uh know, before the war, the second big war. If you'll excuse me now, I'm trying to make some money. I have a spare tire for my 1934 Indian. It was filled with air in 1941 when the bike was put away for war. If I can figure a way to get the air out and put it in bottles maybe I can sell original 1941 air on ebay. Any takers?
        Ron C
        N96995

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        • #34
          Re: Fuel Tank Float Sealer

          I'm more interested in the Ambroid cement. I haven't seen or used that since I was a kid. I may also be interested in the Indian. Not the air, just the bike. You can hang onto the air if you want. You can buy anything on Ebay.
          Cheers,
          Marty


          TF #596
          1946 BC-12D N95258
          Former owner of:
          1946 BC-12D/N95275
          1943 L-2B/N3113S

          Comment


          • #35
            Re: Fuel Tank Float Sealer

            We got new cork floats from "Mikes AFORDable parts". He sells model A Ford parts and the new corks are doing fine.
            Best Regards,
            Mark Julicher

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