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I didn't check the price, but I assumed it was significantly more expensive. Also, I have no idea if it would actually fit, or if the wire was the same length.
I didn't want to pay for a whole assembly if it wasn't going to work and have to tear it apart. I was hoping to just have to pay for the float.
You might try checking with any boat shops in the area to see if they have an old portable fuel tank that is no longer in use. You might be able to rob the float out of it.
The assembly was 90.00 and it works, the rod is the right length, that is why I keep preaching to use it. The wag one is a POS, the univair one works perfectly. Tim
Or for $8.00 and shipping you can use the synthetic floats that you have to do nothing to. Probably for the remaining life of the plane and you can still use your stock cap, etc.
So, who is going to approve that float? Are you going to jeapordize your mechanics liscense and not tell him? If they dont find it, and an accident happens, the mechanic will be at fault.... If you cant afford the legal part when it is available.....I have no problem building a part when a legal/certified one is not available, but why when it is? These are not experimentals that you can do what you want, you still have to follow the regs on maintenance. Tim
Probably the same guy that would have to approve a float that was made for a cub that isn't on a cub. A replacement doesn't exist for my type certificate.
I'm sorry, but get a grip. If it fails you go and get gas, and utilizing time of flight, find your way home. If you use that gas gauge as your gauge to how long you fly there are other issues here. And what legal part would that be? The Taylorcraft gas cap, wire and float that hasn't been available for years and years? Is the Cub one legal, or is the Ercoupe one legal?....on a Taylorcraft??? What is the difference in signing that one off and one that is an owner produced part?
As I said before, the one that was on my original Taylorcraft is at least eight years old and I don't know how old it was prior to that. Absolutely no deterioration AT ALL! And that was using autogas and 100LL. Do you think a coated cork is better than new synthetic materials? Maybe the car manufacturers decided to get out of the stone age and use synthetic floats in their gas tanks as opposed to cork. I guarantee you I can find many threads on this Forum of guys claiming there coated cork float sank or sloughed off crap in the tank. And the question still arises to this day as to what to coat the cork with.
Probably the same guy that would have to approve a float that was made for a cub that isn't on a cub. A replacement doesn't exist for my type certificate.
You have NO certification basis for your home made float, at least with the cub one its certified and PMA'd.
FOR A CUB. Tim, please explain your certification basis for a Taylorcraft. I certainly don't understand this and I am sure others don't either. I am always interested in learning this stuff. Thanks!
Marty, the univair one is composite, I will never use another cork one again if possible. The J3 one is pretty much Identical to our Taylorcraft ones, its a PMA'd Part, and for many mechanics, they dont have a problem with it. With something that is cobbled together, most mechanics don't want to go through the REQUIRED TESTING to use an owner produced part.
I know a lot about this subject because I was working on an STC for a new header tank fuel valve. I gave up because too many people on here were bitching about what it MIGHT cost and decided to home fabricate a racecar valve and stick it in. I doubt that any of them actually disassembled a valve and soaked the seals in AVGAS, MoGas and alcohol to check for swelling! Most people dont realize that Teflon seals will swell some in the presence of alcohol/gasoline. It may only be a few thousands, but will it cause their valve to bind? And did they do push pull tests on the handle? I know its' not a Cessna with good support but its also not your daddys tractor. It may work, but can you be violated for it? This is what all mechanics have to consider. Tim
FOR A CUB. Tim, please explain your certification basis for a Taylorcraft. I certainly don't understand this and I am sure others don't either. I am always interested in learning this stuff. Thanks!
Marty, you can use the FAA PMA certification basis as approved or acceptable data for use on a taylorcraft. When you do the 337, you have to describe how the product you want to use was manufactured, the PMA does that for you. You then have to show how it is comparable, a length comparison of the two would demonstrate that. What is important to realize that someone else had proven it is a safe and quality aircraft part, you then just need to show a change of application and provide data {rod length, cap diamater being the same (form, fit and function), etc} The float fits in the hole. Wag used to have a disclaimer that their wood cork floats were not compatiable with MoGas, and the gaskets they use had the same thing.
Another example is a throttle cable, the one for a taylorcraft is unavailable, but I found a cessna 180 fits perfectly. The cable is not approved for a taylorcraft but it is PMA'd for the cessna, with that certification basis and you have to demonstrate it will work in a taylorcraft, you can get it approved.
If you wanted to spend the money, you could take the J3 cub cap and STC it for use in a taylorcraft. As long as someone else has not done already. Each person who needs one will have to come to you for the approval to use it, and they can buy it from univair. You basically provide the approval for using someone elses product.
Much better understood, thanks Tim. (I wondered what happened to the valve, I would have bought one but I truly don't have a problem with buying a good part). I like stock items that show, like the cap and gauge. The cap would be stock, the wire is wire but the problem you advise is the lousy cork or in this case the 'synthetic' cork. But, how do you prove the 'store-bought' cap, wire and cork is all correct wire length, etc., when that information isn't listed anywhere that I know of, and all the ones that came with the airplane have probably been messed with many times over the years? Or, is that part overlooked? I would think non-stock length indicator wire would be a big issue so how would you prove the Cub gauge is exactly like, or would work for a Taylorcraft? Thanks!
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