Unbonding brake lining??

[mhorowit]

Someone glued/epoxied/bonded my brake lining to the drum.
I've read Rob Lee's page on using epoxy to hold the lining in place and I've read where with his epoxy, a solvent can be used to remove the lining.
As I have no idea what is used to hold my lining in place, would anyone care to suggest how I can remove it?

What if I applied heat? is there a danger of damaging the drum?

I guess I could have them chucked in a lathe and carefully turned, but since it is asbestos ...

Your thoughts please

Thoughts please?

[Robert Lees]

Mike, I don't think I mentioned a solvent.

Most epoxies will un-bond at 60 Celcius (you can work that out to Farenheit, about time the Yanks joined the Modern Age).

This is why epoxies are frowned upon for structural bonding for example in spars.

But don't use boiling water (100 Celcius, you know); you would always have corrosion issues.

Use a dry heat, and unless you are using a propane torch at the high setting, you should not hurt the drum.

Or you could scrape it out with a blunt blade.

If it is asbestos, I would keep it in and adjust the little wedges to suit. "Modern" non-asbestos linings are not as good as the asbestos ones.

See y'all at Oshkosh

Rob

[mhorowit]

Rob - a pleasure to meet you at Alliance and your seminar on brakes was just what I was looking for; add that to your materiel on the web and it was certainly a winning combo.

No, you didn't mention solvent, but you did mention an epoxy; I went Googling to find out where I might find it and discovered a white paper describing which of the epoxies marketed under the Araldite brand were disolved by what solvents. For example, the one that seemed most likely to apply to our brakes was effected by Toluene.

Thanks for the suggestions - Mike




[QUOTE]Originally posted by Robert Lees
[B]Mike, I don't think I mentioned a solvent.

[yerich109]

Hey Tribe,

My brakes are gone, gone, gone. I have adjusted the screws in over the last couple of years, they are now bottomed out. I have also spun the adjusters out and pulled the cables tight and re-adjusted the cable lengths at the pedals, and adjusted the screws back in, and there is just nothing left.

Brakes are very mushy now and only the right one will supply ANY braking action. I mean very little...not even enough to hold me in one spot at a measly 1000 rpm.

Last annual in March, there appeared to be about 1/8" of lining left on each side (maybe slightly less) so I thought it would be sufficient. I also noticed that the shoes were pitted and only appeared to be making contact at one point, but looking at some of the illustrations in the archives, that appears to be normal.

My question is, how thick are the new linings?

If the pads aren't the problem, I am also wondering if my problem may me the pads are just too thin, or perhaps the shoes need better contact surface, or the cam/horshoe mechanism is worn.

Questions, questions....

As always, I appreciate all the advice...

Blue Skies,

[mhorowit]

Eric - go to www.taylorcraft.org.uk
look at the left margin and click on 'brakes'
see if that gives any ideas, esp. the part on refurbishing the inclined plane on the adjustors. - Mike

[mhorowit]

FOLO: Brakes

I followed Rob's advice and heated the brake shell. With a little prying, the lining came off. The remaining adhesive came off with some Toluene and a rag; someone mentioned instructions for installing new lining - anyone got a copy? - Mike