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Boy, I love the "search" function on this forum, and the invaluable collective wisdom on archive here.
We're ready to install my new L&P Aero windshield. My old windshield had holes drilled for the side and top trim strip screws, which I now know is a no-no. Little about the previous owner's windshield installation was done correctly (like a whole tube of glopped-on silicone caulk instead of rubber weatherstripping). See photo -- I'll put this 2004 windshield up for sale cheap when the new windshield's shipping box is empty for re-use.
Forrest wrote in a 9/07 post: "The screws do not go through the windshield. The [top aluminum] strip holds it down in place, at the side [aluminum strips], same way, there are slots that go back beyond the screws. The windshield, as on most aircraft, 'floats' in place -- bolt them in and the first taxi will usually crack the windshield."
OK, so no holes, but maybe oversize slots so the plastic can slide back and forth past the trim strip screws. AC 43.13 says, "When the manufacturer's original design permits, mount [windshield] panels to a minimum depth of 1-1/8 inch, and with a clearance of 1/8 inch between the plastic and the bottom of the channel." I need to go measure the depth of the windshield trim strips from their leading edges back to the screws, and might skip cutting screw slots if they're deep enough.
But what material to pad and weatherproof the rear and top edges of the plexiglas where it is clamped by the trim strips? In a 3/06 post, Bill Berle suggested closed cell foam weatherstrip or bicycle handlebar padded tape.
Any other suggestions or experience? Strips of innertube rubber, perhaps? What did they use back in 1946? Cork? Felt? Can't have too much felt on a Taylorcraft restoration...
We're ready to install my new L&P Aero windshield. My old windshield had holes drilled for the side and top trim strip screws, which I now know is a no-no. Little about the previous owner's windshield installation was done correctly (like a whole tube of glopped-on silicone caulk instead of rubber weatherstripping). See photo -- I'll put this 2004 windshield up for sale cheap when the new windshield's shipping box is empty for re-use.
Forrest wrote in a 9/07 post: "The screws do not go through the windshield. The [top aluminum] strip holds it down in place, at the side [aluminum strips], same way, there are slots that go back beyond the screws. The windshield, as on most aircraft, 'floats' in place -- bolt them in and the first taxi will usually crack the windshield."
OK, so no holes, but maybe oversize slots so the plastic can slide back and forth past the trim strip screws. AC 43.13 says, "When the manufacturer's original design permits, mount [windshield] panels to a minimum depth of 1-1/8 inch, and with a clearance of 1/8 inch between the plastic and the bottom of the channel." I need to go measure the depth of the windshield trim strips from their leading edges back to the screws, and might skip cutting screw slots if they're deep enough.
But what material to pad and weatherproof the rear and top edges of the plexiglas where it is clamped by the trim strips? In a 3/06 post, Bill Berle suggested closed cell foam weatherstrip or bicycle handlebar padded tape.
Any other suggestions or experience? Strips of innertube rubber, perhaps? What did they use back in 1946? Cork? Felt? Can't have too much felt on a Taylorcraft restoration...
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