I am about to start recovering my F-19 in my hanger here in Taos, N.M. I do not have anyone to assist and want to build something out of steel so I can bolt the wing onto it and rotate it. I've never seen one but have heard of people using them. If anyone has any plans or a picture of one appreciate the help. Thanks, Jack
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Re: wing jig
Jack,
Wag Aero has them. You can also make adapters and use them for rudders,stabilizers,ailerons, and elevators to be able to paint one side them flip it over and paint the other without having to wait for the paint to dry.If you want to make your own I can send you a picture.Last edited by Buell Powell; 05-26-2009, 05:17.Buell Powell TF#476
1941 BC12-65 NC29748
1946 Fairchild 24 NC81330
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Re: wing jig
Also, see Rob Lee's restoration site.
Youll see a pic of a jig and stand that attaches to the wing attach points at the root end, and may or may not sit on a sawhorse at the tip.
Takes a a basic welding skill and be sure to mount it on a $15 furnature dolly.
You'll have to build an interface to go from the wing to the Jig. Oh, and the same jig (with a different interface) can mount to the front of the fuselage when you start rotating that.
You could also build it out of 2x4; I've seen one in one of the EAA pubs.
Do a search in the forum and you'll see several ideas.
It's sort of scary holding the wingtip for the first time and rotating 180* but it works; BTW, I built a small 'cradle' (with carpeting) so I could rest the leading edge on something at the 90* position while I repositioned my hands.
You could also mount that on a dolly so you could kick it away easily. - MIkeMike Horowitz
Falls Church, Va
BC-12D, N5188M
TF - 14954
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Re: wing jig
Originally posted by Buell Powell View PostJack,
Wag Aero has them. You can also make adapters and use them for rudders,stabilizers,ailerons, and elevators to be able to paint one side them flip it over and paint the other without having to wait for the paint to dry.If you want to make your own I can send you a picture.jack
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Re: wing jig
Originally posted by mhorowit View PostAlso, see Rob Lee's restoration site.
Youll see a pic of a jig and stand that attaches to the wing attach points at the root end, and may or may not sit on a sawhorse at the tip.
Takes a a basic welding skill and be sure to mount it on a $15 furnature dolly.
You'll have to build an interface to go from the wing to the Jig. Oh, and the same jig (with a different interface) can mount to the front of the fuselage when you start rotating that.
You could also build it out of 2x4; I've seen one in one of the EAA pubs.
Do a search in the forum and you'll see several ideas.
It's sort of scary holding the wingtip for the first time and rotating 180* but it works; BTW, I built a small 'cradle' (with carpeting) so I could rest the leading edge on something at the 90* position while I repositioned my hands.
You could also mount that on a dolly so you could kick it away easily. - MIkejack
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Re: wing jig
John,
That figures it was yours! I couldn't for the life of me remember where I got those pictures. Amazing that there is really enough information in two pictures to build the whole fixture! One picture (and a wing to work with) really IS worth a thousand words.
Hard part is trying to build the fixture so it can be used on a Taylorcraft, Cub or a Stearman wing.
Hank
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Re: wing jig
I haven't found anything it wont work on yet... It's had J3, PA12, PA20, PA22, Tcraft, Stinson (and another set of Stinson wings coming in a couple months), Staggerwing, Bellanca (didn't need the ring on those..just made a heavier plate to bolt on the end) and a few others I don't even remember right now on it.......and they all work. Ya just gotta adjust the length via that square tubing underneath, and the width/height of the strut attaches and about everything seems to fit. Sometimes they wont roll all the way over, such as the Bellanca wings, but it rolled almost all the way. The fitting on the root end is vertically adjustable to keep the wing level in the ring, and if I'd lengthen the tube, it'd probably work, but I'm hoping not to have to do any more of those wings...they're awkward to handle and heavy! The trailing edge was a bit long down by the root, so you had to roll back and forth, but it's still alot better than sawhorses!!
When I go to do the final shrinks on fabric, I clamp the wing vertical at the root, and roatate the ring to get the proper washout, then clamp it to the end of the frame, so the fabric already has the washout in it before the wing is on the plane.... keeps things nice and even.
The ring is 6' in diameter and made of 1" square tubing. (that works out about right to use a 20' stick of tubing) I rolled the ring in my slip roll with the help of another guy to hold it from twisting. It took a few passes, but worked just fine. The brace that the strut fittings attach to is about 18" in from the ring, then the adjusters take off from there. The rollers that the ring rides in are casters that have a groove turned in them, and the frame is made of 2" and 2 1/2" square tubing. Pretty simple setup and it's sure worked well for me for a long time!
JohnI'm so far behind, I think I'm ahead
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Re: wing jig
HI JOhn,
Sounds like a worthwhile jig. Could I trouble you to send me a drawing with dimensions? The pic's and description are great but leave me a lot of questions. If you can, my po box is Jack Ranweiler, 2118, El Prado, N.M. 87529 Thanks, Jack
Originally posted by N96337 View PostI haven't found anything it wont work on yet... It's had J3, PA12, PA20, PA22, Tcraft, Stinson (and another set of Stinson wings coming in a couple months), Staggerwing, Bellanca (didn't need the ring on those..just made a heavier plate to bolt on the end) and a few others I don't even remember right now on it.......and they all work. Ya just gotta adjust the length via that square tubing underneath, and the width/height of the strut attaches and about everything seems to fit. Sometimes they wont roll all the way over, such as the Bellanca wings, but it rolled almost all the way. The fitting on the root end is vertically adjustable to keep the wing level in the ring, and if I'd lengthen the tube, it'd probably work, but I'm hoping not to have to do any more of those wings...they're awkward to handle and heavy! The trailing edge was a bit long down by the root, so you had to roll back and forth, but it's still alot better than sawhorses!!
When I go to do the final shrinks on fabric, I clamp the wing vertical at the root, and roatate the ring to get the proper washout, then clamp it to the end of the frame, so the fabric already has the washout in it before the wing is on the plane.... keeps things nice and even.
The ring is 6' in diameter and made of 1" square tubing. (that works out about right to use a 20' stick of tubing) I rolled the ring in my slip roll with the help of another guy to hold it from twisting. It took a few passes, but worked just fine. The brace that the strut fittings attach to is about 18" in from the ring, then the adjusters take off from there. The rollers that the ring rides in are casters that have a groove turned in them, and the frame is made of 2" and 2 1/2" square tubing. Pretty simple setup and it's sure worked well for me for a long time!
Johnjack
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Re: wing jig
I built a fuseladge stand, using two automotive engine stands, I cut the vertical tube of the engine stand at the half way point, then used two 1 1/4 inch square tubes, to extend the top of the stand to the height I needed to rotate the airframe 360 degrees without hitting the stand. These tubes are slipped into the vertical tube that was cut and are free standing and (not) attached to each other or the stand. The vertical tube on the engine stand is sloped, using the two 1 1/4 inch tubes, allows the stand faces to self align to the vertical. The two stands are connected together by using two square tubes, that will allow one to slip inside the other. Holes are drilled into these tubes, to allow for adjustments. The rear wheels on the stands were removed and full swivel dolly wheels attached. This allows the jig to be moved in any direction. Once I have completed the fuseladge I will convert the jig to hold the wings, by removing one of the stands and fabercating a loop to pick up the strut points on the wing and a fixture that will allow connecting the engine stand to the wing spares. Advantages: Cost - At this time I have $135.00 invested in the stand. The engine stand comes with all of the parts required to allow 360 degree rotation in 15 degree increments. If anyone is interested I will see if I can get someone to help me post some pictures of the stand.Last edited by Rex Havis; 05-31-2009, 06:12.
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Re: wing jig
Jack,
I tried to private message you but from your profile I couldn't figure out which Jack you are. Some friends and I are taking a motorcycle trip into Colorado this July and are looking to park a couple of pickups for a week or so in Taos. Do you know any good places maybe the airport? All of us are aircraft owners so you know we don't have any money for truck parking. Thanks, Mike
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