I hate the nose tank .

[Robert Bradbury]

Am I just paranoid about that tank or should I just leave it alone . My first steel tank leaked, a second AL. that I purchased leaked and then two other attempts to seal the tank failed. I now have a third AL. nose tank but am very reluctant to install it.

What is the history of these things and fire, it just makes me nevous. I can't
seem to find large wing tanks so I guess I'll have to put it back, I dunno ?

I could install experimental tanks if I knew a trusted manufacturer. Two twelve gallon tanks would be plenty for what I do, I just would like it in the
wing not the cockpit .

[Dan Michaels]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

I think you will need a header tank even if you have wing tanks.

Your tank should not leak, Experimental builders build them all the time. I built one for my Cougar. If you have a pontoon boat builder in your area they can manufacture one that would not leak if you took them the materials and the old tank or measurements.

As a last resort you can use a product that you pour into the tank that seals it up. I have used it and if done on a new tank and done correct it works for all types of fuel even ethenol.

Dan

[Pearson]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Robert,

Given the choice between a steel header tank and an aluminum one, I would take the steel. Especially if you are concerned about fire. The firewall is made of steel instead of aluminum because it will withstand the heat of a fire better. The steel tank will definitely hold up better in a crash.

If you can get, or already have a steel tank, you can always run an additional bead of weld over all the seams. Then pressure test it before you install it by putting a low amount of air pressure and waiting awhile to see if the pressure decreases.

Another way to test for leaks that doesn't run the risk of over pressurizing is to seal it up and hold it under water, like in a trough or bathtub. In this case bubbles are bad. You don't have to hold the whole tank under all at once, just a corner at a time will do the trick.

[Robert Bradbury]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

I think you will need a header tank even if you have wing tanks.

Your tank should not leak, Experimental builders build them all the time. I built one for my Cougar. If you have a pontoon boat builder in your area they can manufacture one that would not leak if you took them the materials and the old tank or measurements.

As a last resort you can use a product that you pour into the tank that seals it up. I have used it and if done on a new tank and done correct it works for all types of fuel even ethenol.

Dan

Yes a header tank( 1 gal) is required for the stock tank because there is only one pickup in the tank. If I made my own I would have two like the cessna
system and eliminate the header tank.

I'm too far off in the woods shall I say and thus do not have the services of
tank or pontoon builders nearby. I do know of a tank repair shop that does
repair and coating of automabile tanks , they may be able to help .

[Dan Michaels]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Yes a header tank( 1 gal) is required for the stock tank because there is only one pickup in the tank. If I made my own I would have two like the cessna
system and eliminate the header tank.

I'm too far off in the woods shall I say and thus do not have the services of
tank or pontoon builders nearby. I do know of a tank repair shop that does
repair and coating of automabile tanks , they may be able to help .

That is not going to be enough. It is more than just a pickup. You need to have avaliable fuel at all times. With a small tank in the wings (2) you are going to have unusable fuel. Say 2 gallons, now if you start with 6 gallons that leaves you with 4 gallons. With a header tank taller than wide you have very little unusable fuel. You may be able to get by with a 1 or 2 gallon header made of 6" or 8" aluminum pipe standing on end. But with just wing tanks they are very shallow not the type you want to draw off of.

I see that your BD12 is an experimental. Just use a 12" aluminum pipe with welded ends it will not leak. (Edit)

Dan

[T-Rex]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Why try to reinvent the wheel? Instead of designing a totally unproven expiremental system, why not just mimic a cub fuel system with smaller wing tanks and two small header tanks?

[Joel Severinghaus]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Robert,

You probably don't want to throw more money at your tank problem, but for anyone else's benefit, I wanted to mention that the good folks at Wag-Aero are now selling FAA-approved Taylorcraft fuel tanks. Their catalog lists them for $549 for the 12 gallon fuselage tank and $425 for the left or right 6 gallon wing tanks.

[Dan Michaels]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Why try to reinvent the wheel? Instead of designing a totally unproven expiremental system, why not just mimic a cub fuel system with smaller wing tanks and two small header tanks?

It is not reinventing the wheel, it is used on many experimentals.

Dan

[Robert Bradbury]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

It is not reinventing the wheel, it is used on many experimentals.

Dan

That is correct I have a friend with a experimental cub running dual pickup
wing tanks and no header. Cessnas also do hnot have a header tank either.

Robert

[astjp2]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Robert, first off the "Steel" tank is not steel, it is Tern Plate, (a lead coated tin alloy) (;f it is not welded, it is soldered. Take your old "steel" tank to a good radiator shop and have them solder it. Then reinstall it...If you are worried about paperwork, send me the tank after the work is done and I will buy it off....I have almost 3/8" deep layer of solder around the outlet bung and it goes out almost 2" like a volcano to reinforce the original metal when the fuel valve is pushed on and off....PM me if you have questions, I am back to work now so i have internet again.

Once the tank is repaired, the next thing to leak is the valve....

[Robert Bradbury]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Robert, first off the "Steel" tank is not steel, it is Tern Plate, (a lead coated tin alloy) (;f it is not welded, it is soldered. Take your old "steel" tank to a good radiator shop and have them solder it. Then reinstall it...If you are worried about paperwork, send me the tank after the work is done and I will buy it off....I have almost 3/8" deep layer of solder around the outlet bung and it goes out almost 2" like a volcano to reinforce the original metal when the fuel valve is pushed on and off....PM me if you have questions, I am back to work now so i have internet again.

Once the tank is repaired, the next thing to leak is the valve....

Paperwork is not a problem I'm experimental . I have the steel tank in now
but it was still weeping through a weld joint . I patched it with JB and it has not leaked since . It bothers me that I have had sooooo many issues with
fuel leaking inside the cockpit.

[astjp2]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

If you are using JB weld, you are an accident waiting to happen. Pull the tank and get it soldered properly. I am making a replacement fuel valve under an STC just because my old one used to weep. Mogas smelled so bad that I would get headaches when flying it. I now have a vavle that doesnt seep and I had all of the tanks repaired the last time I had my airplane tore down. I also fuel lubed the shit out of every set of threads for every line in the airplane. The tank design is fine as long as it is maintained and repaired properly. These are just my 2 cents. Tim

[crispy critter]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Am I just paranoid about that tank or should I just leave it alone . My first steel tank leaked, a second AL. that I purchased leaked and then two other attempts to seal the tank failed. I now have a third AL. nose tank but am very reluctant to install it.

What is the history of these things and fire, it just makes me nevous. I can't
seem to find large wing tanks so I guess I'll have to put it back, I dunno ?

I could install experimental tanks if I knew a trusted manufacturer. Two twelve gallon tanks would be plenty for what I do, I just would like it in the
wing not the cockpit .

Robert,
I don't mean to sound like a smart ass but if you haven't already done this.......try leak testing your tank before installing it. Block it up so it's setting in a level attitude like it would be in flight. Then fill it up with gas and let it set for a couple of days(you can also use water but might increase the possiblity of corrosion if you store it for a while without getting it good and dry inside). If you decide to use water,mix it with red food coloring and after you get it full and all the colored water dryed off the outside of the tank,place a clean white towel under the tank. Even if there is a very,very slight leak,you will see it on the towel. If you can't seem to find where the leak is coming from,use baby powder to find it. Don't touch or wipe the tank, hold the baby powder about 8-12 inch's from the tank and simply dust it on the tank until you find the leak....it will show itself plain as day because the white baby powder will turn red when it hits the colored water.

[NY86]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

you can also use water but

Gas leaks much more easily than water, because of the lower surface tension, I think.

[Larry Lyons]

Re: I hate the nose tank .

Yes, look at your fuel funnels/strainers with the screen that holds water but lets the gas through! Larry