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You can re-work the geometry of the fuel valve handle as shown in the Univair catalog and it will work.
What we really need is a DER or somebody to step up to getting some approved data for a replacement valve. There are many in the tribe looking for a good valve.
Fixing Old Valve: Most try lapping the valve, and that works up to a point, but once the main body wears too far, then lapping out scratches won't do the job because the center of the main body develops a bulge in the middle, (just like older T-craft pilots; and yes I speak for myself.) Once you get to that point, then aggressively lapping the valve will cause the plug to seat too deep into the body and that makes the valve stop disengage. In other words, the stop pin will no longer engage the C-ring and therefore the valve will not stop at the correct positions for on-off.
It might be possible to plate the valve body and the plug with something soft like cadmium, and then lap them or machine them back to spec. The plug is easy to machine. The body is more difficult and beyond my resources.
How about filling in the bore some with a select copper fill. Lap it smooth and them put a Nickel Tungsten cap select plate on to give you a hard wear surface. Select plating the male part is easier, but I would use the same thing without the NiW. We repaired chrome on A-6 landing gears that way and they stood up VERY well. The select plate process is fairly easy to use.
Hank
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