does any one know exactly what type of metal stringers are used on T-crafts. I have read to posts and they sy tha you can buy them br AC spruce but I cant find them in ther catalog.
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Re: metal Stringers
Thanks for your Reply. Have you used them? Are they similar to the one the Factory used in the 1970's THe ones in the spruce catalog seem a bit short, but in my 1973 taylorcraft parts catalog they show springs and 17 blocks that go with the stringers. Have you ever used them?
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Re: metal Stringers
I used the A/C Spruce sringers. They work fine. To splice, just lay one on top of the other and put in a couple of #4 sheet metal screws or 3/32 rivets on the sides to hold them together. The blocks are a different story. I made blocks with 3 different concave radius's to fit the fuselage tubes. The over all hieght of the blocks will vary to make the stringers stand out the correct amount from the fuselage. You will have to mount the stringers temporarily to the fuselage to measure how thick the blocks will need to be. I wraped anti chafe tape around the fuselage tubes and over the blocks so the springs (hardware store) wouldn't cut into the fuselage tubes. I can take a picture if you want.
BobLast edited by Bobdog; 03-20-2007, 16:27.
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Re: metal Stringers
Thanks so much for the help. Plese send me a picture if you can. WHat I need to know is how you attached them to the door frame and the section by the landing gear. How are the springs used? My e-mail is [email protected]
Thanks agiain
Mike
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Re: metal Stringers
Originally posted by Bobdog View PostStringer pictures:
Personally, I believe that safety wire should be used instead of springs. Not that it would make a plane fall out of the sky, but thde springs could allow movement where safety wire would not. They also weigh a lot more than wire, maybe it would add up to a pound or two difference, not much but no reason for it IMHO either.
If springs were the OEM way to do it then great, nobody will question it.Taylorcraft : Making Better Aviators for 75 Years... and Counting
Bill Berle
TF#693
http://www.ezflaphandle.com
http://www.grantstar.net
N26451 (1940 BL(C)-65) 1988-90
N47DN (Auster Autocrat) 1992-93
N96121 (1946 BC-12D-85) 1998-99
N29544 (1940 BL(C)-85) 2005-08
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Re: metal Stringers
Bob, your plane is not safe to fly... too clean inside. Please apply Taylorcraft approved dirt and grease immediately
Bob
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Re: metal Stringers
Bob, Like you photos and I wish I had seen it earlier. I replaced my bungees and I like the way you looped the safety cable around the landing gear. I did not do this and have to find a way to keep cable in the area in case of bungee failure. FYI when I cut the old ones off the safety cable did not catch. Thank goodness I had tied the wheels together and had a second rope on the engine mount attached to the roof rafters.Dennis McGuire
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Re: metal Stringers
Bobdog, Could you please send me some pictures of the fuselage and how everything goes back together? I need to know how the seat and the seatbelts go back in as well as where the stringers go. Any pictures of a bare fuselage would help. Thanks.
Tom Garrick
Johns Island, SC
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Re: metal Stringers
Locating the position of the stringers is important. You MUST first temporarily install the rudder and rudder cables so you dont have a stringer installed where the rudder cables are, The center stringer has to stick out the furthest from the fuselage, the upper and the lower stringers must stick out further than the longerons, but not as far as the center stringer. Use a straight edge to make sure. Also sight down the stringers to make sure they aren't weaving in and out. A little extra time here will pay off with a smooth fuselage and maybe even a couple of extra MPH.
Bob
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