EZ Flush riveting???

[mhorowit]

Never done any riveting except with a cheap pop-rivet gun.
Faced with the prospect of having to set up to a dozen flush rivets in aluminum sheet, I don't relish the idea of having to purchase dimplers and whatnot. These rivetheads won't show.

Is there an inexpensive way to approach this problem (other than borrowing the tools)? Perhaps using something I already have? - Mike

[mulwyk]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike:

If you're just making a few dimples you can:

Drill a hole (slightly larger than the rivet shank) in a hardwood block. Countersink the hole so the countersink is slightly larger than the rivet head.

Then slip a flush rivet into the hole in the aluminum sheet you want dimpled and, with the countersunk wood block underneath, whack the rivet head with a hammer (or use your rivet gun). The aluminum will dimple down nicely into the countersunk recess in the hardwood block. The rivet itself will make two or three good dimples before you have to throw it away.

Bob Gustafson

[mhorowit]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike:

If you're just making a few dimples you can:....
Bob Gustafson

GREAT!
Flip the piece rivet head down and pressing against something and start hitting the shank shaft with the peen end of a ball-peen hammer? - Mike

[jgerard]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

I bet you can quickly find a local A&P with the right tools for the job that would be willing to help with a bit of instruction on riveting. Most mechanics I know enjoy teaching a greenhorn new skills.

[VictorBravo]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

GREAT!
Flip the piece rivet head down and pressing against something and start hitting the shank shaft with the peen end of a ball-peen hammer? - Mike

Yes, but AFTER you have dimpled the hole. Also, put the piece and flush side of the rivet upside down on an anvil or metal bar of some sort to keep it flush. Use a large diameter punch or metal rod on the shank end of the rivet and hit it with a HEAVY hammer... don't try to hit the rivet itself, you will bend the shank.

Make five or six test samples on scrap aluminum to get the technique before you srtart banging on the real piece

[mhorowit]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

...hit it with a HEAVY hammer...

I know that technical term: BFH.
My dad left me one.
Interesting warning not to hit the shank directly, but via a drift. Thanks - Mike

[VictorBravo]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

The most frequent failure mode will be to bend the rivet shank rather than squash it. The drift will help.

On ebay you can often find a hand rivet squeezer fairly reasonably. They have their limits but they are very useful. If you can get one with the "rivet set" assortment for $20 or 50 I'd recommend one in your toolbox. No need for a gleaming brand new gold plated one for $150

If you do buy one, go out of your way to get the "deep throat" model (sorry, couldn't resist). That is the limiting factor, how far into a sheet can the tool reach before bottoming out. A 6 inch capacity one is worth twice or more than a 3 inch capacity one IMHO. I bought the small one years ago and have regretted it on more than one occasion.

[Robert Lees]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Is there an inexpensive way to approach this problem

Yes, Mike. Find a local RV builder, and ask him/her for their help, in return for something you can offer.

There is a lot more to this flush riveting game than meets the eye (mine included), for example, after dimpling, most RV'ers clean out the countersink with a 3-flute hand countersink tool, to enable the rivet to lie as close to the dimpled material as possible.

Wet rivet or dry rivet (I always wet rivet with Pigeon Poo).

Then before painting, the "ring" around the rivet is filled with knifing putty, else the paint will not adhere to the sharp edge of the circular rivet head.

Hope this helps,

Rob

[Mark Julicher]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike,

If you can't find and RV builder as Rob suggested, the back up plan might be to use counter sunk pop rivets - yep they make them! And as an added bonus, there is a dimple tool available that works with a pop rivet gun. It consists of two mated dies that are squeezed (squoze?) together using the pop rivet gun. If you use an oversize mandrel on the gun you don't have to break the nail when makeing each dimple.

This method is slow and somewhat a PITH, but good for small jobs and rivets that don't show.

Avery tool sells the dimple tool.

[mhorowit]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike,
... use counter sunk pop rivets - yep they make them!
Avery tool sells the dimple tool.

Thanks for the pointer - MIke

[Pearson]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike,

I am certainly not riveter but, if it is as you say, and "These rivetheads won't show", why not just use a regular round head rivet and skip all the dimple stuff. (I just had to put that in there)

[mhorowit]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike,

I am certainly not riveter but, if it is as you say, and "These rivetheads won't show", why not just use a regular round head rivet and skip all the dimple stuff. (I just had to put that in there)

I should have phrased it differently. if they were rounded, then they'd show under the fabric. - Mike

[mhorowit]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike,

pop rivets .

He said pop rivets.
If I was satisfied with a rounded head, could I use the aluminum pop-rivets from HomeDepotAerospace? - MIke

[pete]

Re: EZ Flush riveting???

Mike,
You might try dimpling with a 12pt. socket or a piece of tube with an I.D. a bit larger than the rivet head. With the rivet in the hole and the piece flipped over, set the "tool" over the shank and tap it with your BFH. I did some countersunk cowl fasteners this way and it worked pretty good. Pop rivets are typically used only when you can't get to the back side of the piece. Use aviation products. Cherry aerospace rivets are way better.
Pete